Its an 82 gs400T. thanks guys.
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Light stays on, this normal?
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bikechump
Light stays on, this normal?
I noticed this a while ago and never thought of posting it. When i go to lock my steering with the key turned fully to the right my tail light stays on. Without the lock its fine, no lights. Just curious of whats going on.
Its an 82 gs400T. thanks guys.Tags: None
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jbs80106
Found something similar on mine!
Seems on my 82 650G there are 2 'lock' positions.
- down to the left as far as it will go, is lock...
- all the way to the right, past the 'start' position is the 'park' position...
park keeps the power on, and presumably will let you leave it running, with the handle bars locks so nobody can steal it...mines a bugger to get outta either lock position...
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Actually, the only power to the system is to the brake lights. There is a diode in the system that prevents the front marker lights or the instrument lights from coming on.
I think this feature was suggested by the battery manufacturers, as its only real function is to run the battery down before you can come back with some help. 8-[
JBS, if it's "a bugger to get outta either lock position", try lubricating the pin that comes down from the ignition lock to fit in a slot on the lower triple tree. That is the actual lock mechanism. Then, move the handlebars a bit to make sure the pin is not in a bind when you are trying to unlock them. You ever had to wiggle the steering wheel in your car to move the ignition key? Same principle.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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DanTheMan
The position to the right is parking lights, to satisfy UK requirements, and it was put on all the bikes no matter where they were being sold, always turn you key to the left to lock the forks so you don't run down the battery.:-D
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jbs80106
Thanks!
I did lube the locking pin during my winter maintenance but I haven't tested it out to see if its easier now or not. Once it took me 3 days to get it unlocked. But like you said, it takes some getting used to with wiggling the handlebars and removing/inserting the key, wiggle the key, etc....
similar to the learning curve for getting my bike up on the center stand...can do it every time now but before I learned what to do it was a comedy of errors in the garage....
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DanTheMan
Originally posted by jbs80106 View PostI did lube the locking pin during my winter maintenance but I haven't tested it out to see if its easier now or not. Once it took me 3 days to get it unlocked. But like you said, it takes some getting used to with wiggling the handlebars and removing/inserting the key, wiggle the key, etc....
similar to the learning curve for getting my bike up on the center stand...can do it every time now but before I learned what to do it was a comedy of errors in the garage....
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Nightmare
Please be VERY careful about the locking mechanism... A co-worker of mine got to "play" superman off of a cliff when the front wheel of his bike locked up because there was a manufacturing error in the locking cylinder of his bike... This cause the ignition to jump to lock while in a turn and locked the front forks sending him into the guard rails and down a steep hill...
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Zooks
Get a 'puff pack' of graphite powder. Squirt it into the actual lock mechanism and all over your key. Slide the key in and out numerous times and also operate the lock numerous times.
Graphite dust / powder is what locksmiths use to lube locks with. Because it is dry it doesn't attract grit and dirt like wet lubes do. Much better for your lock and guaranteed smooth operation forever more.
Use it in all the locks - (seat, ignition etc) to keep them in good shape.
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