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Bike starts with carb cleaner but not with gas?
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stp1stp
Bike starts with carb cleaner but not with gas?
I just bought 4 new carb rebuild kits. Put the new parts in the clean carbs and replaced the fuel petcock with a new one. BIke still wont turn over by itself. The only way I could get it to start is by taking the air filter out and sparying a little carb cleaner into the port hole. Even then it will only run for a few seconds. The carbs bowls are primed. I just can't figure it out. Any sugestions?Tags: None
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mark
A few things, I don't know if it will help.
When you start the bike, make sure you don't use any throttle when the choke is on. Choke only to start.
Is the choke hooked up?
Floats adjusted correctly?
Vacuum line hooked up right?
After you try starting it, pull a plug or two and see they are wet from gas. You may have weak spark. Battery needs to be in good shape and good voltage to the coils.
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stp1stp
The floats might not be adjusted correctly. The old float needle had a cage around it to keep it from falling out, the new ones have a spring load post and the little wire cage will not fit around it. This could be a problem but will that just cause it to drown the spark plugs? I do have the take attach to a 6 foot vacuum and gas line so I can have the tank sitting on a shelf while I make adjustments. Maybe the vacuum line is too long? I attach a small vacuum line and suck it by mouth into it started to flow out of number 4drain plug hole. So I know that the bowls have gas. I'll go check out the plugs in a minute to see if they get wet.
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If you changed your float needle and seat you neeed to adjust your float heigth.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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stp1stp
Where can I get part # 09913-14511 (fuel level gauge) or is there a different way to see if you need to adjust the float?
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I used a ruler with mm. Just make sure both sides measure the same.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by stp1stp View PostI just bought 4 new carb rebuild kits. Put the new parts in the clean carbs and replaced the fuel petcock with a new one. BIke still wont turn over by itself. The only way I could get it to start is by taking the air filter out and sparying a little carb cleaner into the port hole. Even then it will only run for a few seconds. The carbs bowls are primed. I just can't figure it out. Any sugestions?
Poor spark doesn't sound like an issue.:) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................
GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg
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tconroy
Originally posted by stp1stp View PostThe floats might not be adjusted correctly. The old float needle had a cage around it to keep it from falling out, the new ones have a spring load post and the little wire cage will not fit around it. This could be a problem but will that just cause it to drown the spark plugs? I do have the take attach to a 6 foot vacuum and gas line so I can have the tank sitting on a shelf while I make adjustments. Maybe the vacuum line is too long? I attach a small vacuum line and suck it by mouth into it started to flow out of number 4drain plug hole. So I know that the bowls have gas. I'll go check out the plugs in a minute to see if they get wet.
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stp1stp
I'm very sure it's on right. Here a pic of the old one wih the cage.
Good news and bad new.
Good News.......The bike started right up. I don't know why it was giving me hell yesterday but today started with no problems.
Bad News........I think the oil passages the the head are clogged. I let the bike get hot then a loud screeching sound and dies. I think it is coming from the head but I'm not sure and I don't want to start it again. I knew putting that gasket selant was going to be bad news. I never worked on a motorcycle engine before and when I changed the gaskets I wasn't thinking clearly. Now I have a lot of work ahead of me.
Does that sould like no oil is getting to the head to everybody else? Is it gasket crap in the lines?
On top of everything else #2 isn't getting hot. Just a little warm and probably from #1 and #3.
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Commodus
Yep, that loud screeching sound is exactly what just happened to me, and it was sealant that did it.
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stp1stp
Did you clean it out? Was it easy? I'm sure it requires taking the crank case apart but I not even sure where the oil passages are at but I'm sure my Clymer's manual will let me know.
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Your cam "might" be toast. Your cam cap "might" be toast. Your head "might be" toast.
You won't know until you open it up.
What a bummer. A hard lesson learned.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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stp1stp
Will it be very noticable if any of those part are "toast"? Or is it a measuring thing because i did take the cam cover off the first time this happen before winter and there was no visible damage, which that doesn't mean that there isn't damage hiding. I know that, but I didn't see anything.
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If it's "toast", you will most likely see your cam breaings a dark blue/gray in color, possibly worn down through the surface material and into the backer material, the caps may show the same wear patterns. Cam journals may have the bearing material "burnt" into them and the lobes will be almost black, with the exception of the very tips of the lobes. I sure hope you see none of these signs...I've "burnt" an engine or two over the years. Ps. there is a smell of BURNT to go along with the colors.
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stp1stp
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