Pulling the stator magnets

[JimRobert]

Maybe some PO has switched the coils? So you are 180 degrees off. That is what has been done to my GS450. So try swithing them again.

I marked all the wires when I took them off. I have the owners manual and wiring diagram shows that I have the wires plugged on right at the coils and plugs. I am truly stumped until I can find a manual or a diagram to see exactly what the cam settings are. I guess there is always the possibility that this new motor I put in has bad or sticking valves. I did adjust them at .004 cold.

[JimRobert]

I finally got it running. I did some soul searching on the net and found a link to a guy that describes the cam timing real well. He said that sometimes the marks are slightly off on the cam gears and showed an end shot of the motor and cams. So off I go to the garage to pull the bike apart again. I did have it all together, GRRRRR. In his picture it shows a notch on the end of each camshaft. The notch lines up perfectly in the middle of it and the top of the head. I put #1 back at TDC on the compression stoke only to find out the the notches on the cams were ever so slightly off in the retarded direction. Ok, no comments now about being retarded. I looked at the arrows on the cams and they were right on. Out came the cams and I moved them one tooth in the advance direction. The notches are right dead center on the top face of the head. The arrows on the cam gears are pointing down ever so slightly. I put the valve cover back on and the bike fired right up instantly. It runs real well until you hit 5-6k RPM's. Then it sputters a bit until it reaches 8k and goes wild. There must be something in the cabrs. I did pull them apart and clean them out really good. The gas has been changed also. I noticed that the motor doesn't like to idle below 1200-1300 rpm's either. I'm going to try some carb cleaner and see what happens before I do anything else and before I put the bike back together. Hopefully the carb cleaner will clean it out. This bike has only sat since September of last year.

[Steve]

Now that you have the cam timing straightened out, it sounds like it's CARB TIME. \\/

Have you sync'ed the carbs yet? Start there, then tweak the mixture screws, then check the sync again.


.

[JimRobert]

Now that you have the cam timing straightened out, it sounds like it's CARB TIME. \\/

Have you sync'ed the carbs yet? Start there, then tweak the mixture screws, then check the sync again.


.

I figured that was going to be next. I did pull the carbs apart and clean them out real good when I pulled the motor out. Where are the idle mixture screws on this bike? I hope it isn't the screw facing upwards at the front throat of the carbs. If so they are all frozen. I did take it out for a spin tonight and was able to run the throttle right up without any hesitation. I may have had a kink in the gas line previosly. I addded a fuel filter in the line and it was wrapped kinda tight. I chnaged that hose out later today before I took it out. The idle still seems a bit off. I also noticed that the idle drops down real slow from 2k to 1k when you come to a stop. I can honestly say that this bike screams. It has been jetted and has a Vance and Hines pipe on it Can you say wheelies. What a far cry from riding my GoldWing.

[hlrembe]

Go back to my original post I corrected the links and they should work now.

[JimRobert]

Thanks Harry. I just printed them out.

Jim

[Steve]

Where are the idle mixture screws on this bike? I hope it isn't the screw facing upwards at the front throat of the carbs. If so they are all frozen.

Guess what? :shock:

Yep, them's the ones. 8-[

First of all, make sure the plugs have been removed that cover the screws. Then dribble some carb cleaner or PB Blaster penetrating oil and flood the area where the screw is. Let it sit overnight. Repeat for a couple more days. Buy a new screwdriver that fits. If your toolbox is like most of ours, your tools are reasonably well-worn. You really need a new screwdriver with sharp corners that will not slip on the screw. An alternate is to grind a fresh tip on your best-fitting driver. Try to work the screws loose. If they only turn just a bit, work them back and forth, give them a fresh shot of PB Blaster, keep working them. Chances are that they are stuck for one of two reasons: 1) corrosion is binding between the brass screw and the aluminum body or 2) the o-ring is stuck and holding everything. Check the o-rings when you get them out. Polish the jets with very fine steel wool and use new o-rings, if necessary. Install the jets, start with them about 2 turns out, then fine tune when warmed up.

Lotsa luck.


.

[JimRobert]

Guess what? :shock:

Yep, them's the ones. 8-[

First of all, make sure the plugs have been removed that cover the screws. Then dribble some carb cleaner or PB Blaster penetrating oil and flood the area where the screw is. Let it sit overnight. Repeat for a couple more days. Buy a new screwdriver that fits. If your toolbox is like most of ours, your tools are reasonably well-worn. You really need a new screwdriver with sharp corners that will not slip on the screw. An alternate is to grind a fresh tip on your best-fitting driver. Try to work the screws loose. If they only turn just a bit, work them back and forth, give them a fresh shot of PB Blaster, keep working them. Chances are that they are stuck for one of two reasons: 1) corrosion is binding between the brass screw and the aluminum body or 2) the o-ring is stuck and holding everything. Check the o-rings when you get them out. Polish the jets with very fine steel wool and use new o-rings, if necessary. Install the jets, start with them about 2 turns out, then fine tune when warmed up.

Lotsa luck.


.

Thanks for the info. That is exactly what I figured once I read the manual that Harry put up the link for my bike. I have penetrating oil sitting on since last night. The plugs have been removed. I should have taken them out when I had the carbs pulled. Live and learn. They are a real B---- to get out too.