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    Just a Click - Help!

    I need help in this. Put in a freshly charged new battery in my GS650GLX, tried to start. First it would turn over a few times pretty strong, then it sounded like the battery was drained, and would only click. Took the battery out and fully charged it. Put it back in the bike and it just clicked. Now it won't even click, but the head light and turn signals are strong. After trying a few times and checking harness connections, I took the battery out and I am charging it back up but it seems to really have drained the battery because it is still charging after 40 minutes.

    What should I consider or look for?

    Norseman
    Last edited by Guest; 04-09-2007, 09:15 PM.

    #2
    Bad starter motor

    Comment


      #3
      Bad Starter Motor?

      Is this something I can fix, or does that mean I need to replace the starter at $270 which I don't have?

      Norseman

      Comment


        #4
        If the battery is really drained that much the solonoid is connecting the battery to the starter and the starter is nearly shorted (shot). However, I don't know that the starter is killing the battery, new battery might be getting discharged just running the lights or there may be some other leak to ground. Usually it's the solonoid that goes bad in these. Hope you have a wireing diagram. You can connect a positive to the low current lug on the solonoid to engage the solonoid and starter. Thats what goes through the ignition switch, engine kill switch, and starter switch. If it does nothing you've just eliminated the three things I just mentioned plus the associated wireing harness. Then you can momentarally connect the starter high amperage lug to the battery positive useing a heavy gauge wire. If the engine turns over the solonoid is defective. (You need to look at the two high current wires on the solonoid and see which one goes to the battery and which one goes to the starter.) The solonoid connects these two when you press the starter switch. When I replace a starter solonoid I go to Auto Zone or some place like it and get a Ford solonoid for $8.00. It's heavier duty than the original and doesn't cost $80.00. It might not mount perfect but you'll get it on well enough. Hope I didn't explain stuff you already knew, I have no way to tell.

        Comment


          #5
          If the starter motor is bad you should be able to get a used one for very little. Haven't ever had a GS starter motor go bad myself.

          Comment


            #6
            see what kind of voltage you are getting across the battery. How old is the battery? you mentioned that it was freshly charged, but the battery may still be dead (bad). Check the voltage across the battery after leaving the lights on the bike for a minute or so to take off the surface charge. It should be like 12.4 or so I would assume, with the key off. If not, try hooking your car battery up or another outside battery up to the bike and try cranking again. I would assume your solinoid would be good because it clicks and you stated that the bike turned over a little in the beginning. If it is an old battery that you tried to charge, you may just need a new fresh one. If you get a new one be sure to put the electrolite in and let it soak for about an hour before charging it. This allows the battery time to absorb the electrolite into the plates. If all else fails take the starter motor leads and hook them directly to the battery with large wires, like the above post stated. If still nothing then you have starter problems. Take the starter out. I have never messed with a bike starter, but maybe you need new brushes or something, but I would just get a new starter on ebay for $40.

            Sorry for telling you alot of the stuff the above post said,
            Good Luck
            Nick
            Last edited by Guest; 04-09-2007, 10:01 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Starter Motor Relay

              Thanks, MidnightRider. I am truly learning here from a zero knowledge base, so forgive me for dumb questions. When you say solonoid, are you saying the "Starter Motor Relay"? If you go to an auto parts store like Auto Zone (which is the one I usually go to), how do you know which one to buy?

              Norseman

              Comment


                #8
                Battery Age

                Hi, Nick! I bought the bike in January and replaced the battery with this new one. The bike was running rough, so I decided to do the carb clean as in the carb cleaning instructions on this forum, and I also did the valve clearance job. So I fully charged the battery and placed it on my bookshelf while I worked on the bike (2 1/2 months). I finished the work yesterday, put the battery in (and omitted re-charging it back up after 2 1/2 months on the shelf), and it turned a few times and then the battery died. I discovered that the choke activator on the carbs was incorrectly assembled, and did not engage the choke, so I corrected that. I re-charged the battery, put it back in, and then this problem occurred. So in my mind the battery is new.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Starter solonoid and relay are the same thing. I keep a spare here at home since they are so inexpensive. It's a Wells F496, but a lot of Fords had a solonoid mounted up on the fender well. The parts guys are often young so they might not know what you are talking about but if they are over 40 they will know there were about a billion Ford cars and trucks that used those. "Don't ignore the other tips". If you have a known good battery in a car or tractor disconnect the starter cable from the solonoid and use jumper cables to jump the starter to the good battery. Lots of sparks and the bike engine is going to turn over so be sure it's in neutral.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    try connecting a different battery, just to rule things out.
                    if you take the spark plugs out and put some ether in each spark plug hole then get your buddy to push you, put the bike in second with the clutch in. Once you get up to speed drop the clutch and start the bike up, if you want to just see how she runs.

                    How that helps, I dont know....

                    It really sounds like a bad battery, but If you have good strong lights, it couldnt be bad batt. When you hit the starter, do the lights go out, or dim? If they dim that means that should mean that you are getting power to your starter and you lose voltage.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Clarification

                      So, in order to rule out a bad starter motor, I put the battery in the bike and connect the ground (-) as usual. Then I run a heavy gage wire from the battery positive to the starter motor. If the motor engages, I likely have a good starter but a bad solenoid. The next step would be to buy a replacement Wells F496 solenoid from Auto Zone.

                      The reason I think it's a bad solenoid is when I charge the "new" battery and put it in the bike, I now don't even hear a click from the solenoid. Man, I hate electrical problems (I'm a dufus when it comes to electrical systems - don't even know how to use a meter, but I suspect I'll be learning that as well working on old bikes:shock: )

                      Thanks, everyone, for your advice and helping me through this!!!

                      Norseman

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Bad News

                        Well, I charged the battery, measured voltage at exactly 12.5V, put the battery in the bike, tried normal connect and starter switch - nothing, not as much as a click.

                        Hooked starter directly up to positive on battery - nothing. Took battery out and measured between poles - still 12.5V. So, at this point I assume the starter motor died.

                        If anyone has a different diagnosis, please let me know. Thanks again for all your help...

                        Norseman

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Alternator-Starter-Repair Parts for Motorcycle:Scooter:Snowmobile:ATV:PWC:Garden Tractor:Golf Carts:Utility Carts:Small Engines:Industrial Engines More!

                          Thank Lynn for this link.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The starter needs a good ground also. If the bolts are loose holding the starter in or the connection is dirty it will not turn.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thanks, Chef!

                              Thanks for responding, Chef, and for the link. The only thing that bothers me is when everything is hooked up with a confirmed charged battery, and I hit the starter button, there is no click or reaction from the solenoid. Also, I kept the headlight on as I hit the starter button, and the light didn't dim or react in the slightest.

                              Then, after checking the starter is firmly mounted, and connecting main starter lug directly to positive terminal on battery, nothing.

                              Logically, this implies that both solenoid and starter went bad at the same time. That makes me worry that something fried both of them at the same time, and buying a new (used/refurbished) starter will only result in frying it again? I'm in the dark what to do here.

                              Norseman

                              Comment

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