.png "Powered by vBulletin")
I need a bit of info on a substitute clutch cable for my E model. The stock length is too long for my bars and the way I rout it so its tucked away creates too much drag. Anyone know how much shorter the Katana cable would be? I figure seeing as the Katana's have low bars they should have a shorter cable. Any ideas???
-
-
You could always make your own.
I don't highly recommend this, only because putting ends on the cable can be tricky sometimes, but it will work if you cannot find what you want in OEM parts.
As long as the sheath is OK, you can replace the inner cable. Your best bet is galvanized aircraft cable. You should pay the stupidly high price difference, and buy it from an aircraft supply outlet. Past experience suggests it is of better quality than the stuff that is sold in hardware stores as "aircraft-type" cable.
It will show very limited stretch and, if it isn't cut, it will never break.Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
-
I'm sure you realize that there is more to clutch cable substitution than overall length. You have to concider the type of nipple on the cable as well as the relative length of the cable versus cable housing. When the Clutch cable on my 77 GS750 broke last year I found to my surprise that one from a 78 GT750 (water buffalo) had the same nipples. I didn't realize until I was installing it that the cable versus cable housing was just a little bit longer than the original. I had to use the max adjustment on both adjusters to compensate and even at that the cable wasn't pulling tangent to the lever on the gearbox. This made for a stiffer pull. I don't know what kind of luck you will have in your case (might have to have something made up). If it was me I would just lube the cable well and reroute it to take the sharper bends out of it . Whatever you do you will have some time to think about it. I don't know what conditions are like in The Soo but if they are like here you probably have at least 4-5 weeks.
BlaineComment
-
Whatever length you end up with, both the Suzuki and the Clymer manual emphasize that the cable must be routed exactly as stock, or it won't work correctly.Comment
-
Had lower bars on my "80" 1100 ET. I used a clutch cable form a "79" GS 1000 S. Worked like it was made for it.Comment
-
Use the longer cable, and cut it down.
Use the longer cable and cut it down to length. Cut the case down the the proper length. Next cut the cable itself longer than you need so it sticks out past the clutch arm. Remove the thing that holds the lead end to the clutch arm, and use a cable bolt. Similar to the ones on bicycle brakes, but heavier. Now you can pull the cable apart and feed oil into it when you want.
Just make sure you use a crimped wire connector on the end or it will unravel.Comment
-
Whew... OK here we go;
1. Ron, I'm with you on the homemade. Tried a couple times when I had my Honda as a kid and they would last a month or 2 and the nipples would pull off. Only as a last resort will I do this.
2.Blaine, I know that there are many sizes for our iron and I would do a little research before I jump and buy a cable I can't use. Most of the 750/1000/1100 line use the same parts and I believe the throw on the clutch is the same, also my lever is an 1100 piece so I know the ends are the same. I was thinking Katana since they've been around since 81 or82 in both 750 and 1000/1100 form ( in Europe anyway; never seen a 750 here but 1100's I have) and having the same hardware with lower bars I thought the cable may be just a shrunk version of the longer E model.
Oh, the weather? got 2 days of nice; sun and plus 2 or 3 degrees and Fri. and Sat brought another foot give or take a couple inches. Typical.
3.Gary, yeah, I know routing is important. A tight cable and an 1100 Barnett clutch sure give your left arm a good workout as I've known for a good decade or so. My bars are waaay short for std routing and the cable isn't long enough to go around the other side of the steering head and not look goofy. Hmmm, mabe if I reroute under the tank...
4. rphillips, thanks for the tidbit. I'll look into it. I'll have to dig out the garage and go measure but if memory serves me correctly, I need only a 4" or so reduction in length if that.
5. Chris, not a bad thought either.Comment
-
Hey Jon,
I'm just curious, what do you need a clutch cable for anyway? I real man rides without one and just lifts the back wheel off the road at a stop light. Or you could do like srivett. Ride in the winter and just let the back wheel spin on the ice at a stop light. OK, I think I'll go take my medication now.Comment
-
Yeah, I know. Must be getting wimpy as I get older... 8OOriginally posted by Junkman Frankenbiker
Comment
-
Geez I must be turning into a sook too 8O I like to be able to use my clutch not that I need it much with the grunt of the Tractor, or the Kat 
DinkComment
Comment