Fuse Rating - GS 1000G

[salty_monk]

Can someone confirm.

Fuses I have fitted starting at the top of the box:

20A
10A
25A
20A
10A


Fuses on the Clymer wiring diagram:

10A
10A
10A
15A
10A

The bottom one disintegrated when I pulled it out of the holder to clean it up. Anyone know if this fuse being bust would cause my charging problem? On the diagram it appears to go directly back to the battery with a connection (via an additional 15amp fuse) to the ignition switch somewhere along it's length.

Cheers,

Dan

[salty_monk]

It's ok a search answered my own question, mine are wrong & the Clymer's right... I can go up the shop & get them now

[Steve]

You did not say what year you had, but most of the diagrams in my Clymer manual are pretty much the same, as far as the fuses are concerned.

The top fuse feeds the ignition key, which controls power to the head and tail lights and the turn signals and gauges.
The 2nd fuse down feeds the brake lights, oil pressure switch and horns.
The 3rd fuse down feeds the ignition circuit.
The 4th fuse down (Clymer calls for 15A) is the main fuse. It is fed from the starter relay, which is connected directly to the battery. The regulator/rectifier also feeds the battery through this fuse, so make sure the contacts are clean and the fuse is good.
The bottom fuse only protects the ACC outlet at the bottome of the fuse panel. That should not have any effect on charging.

I would not put in anything much (if any) larger than what the book calls for. A good example of that is your 3rd fuse, where you have a 25A fuse. To handle that much current, you need 10- or 11-gauge wire. The only wire on the bike anywhere near that size is the starter lead. If you had a problem with the ignitor circuit, it is possible to burn the 18-gauge wires that are there before the fuse even get close to blowing. It is a generally accepted idea in electronics that the fuse should protect the wiring, not the wiring protect the fuse.


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[Steve]

OK, what's the big idea? :shock:

You went out and found your own answer while I was writing you a book! 8-[


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[salty_monk]

Steve,

It's in my Sig - It's an 80 model first purchased in 81.

I've charged the battery & it's now up to a healthy 13.2V on the meter. I'm going to replace all the fuses & try running the tests again tonight.

Last night I cleaned up the fusebox & a bunch of other connections. Not run a direct ground from the RR yet but did get a meter on there & no voltage drop between battery & the RR casing.

This weekend I'll run a separate ground (got some 10 gauge wire & connectors which is much bigger than current one from RR) & if no joy I'll do the Stator No load test. Hoping worse case is the RR, don't fancy pulling the stator out much!

I might consider running a 2nd additional ground up to the headlight as well for good measure, I didn't realise there was really only one ground connection for the whole frame.

Dan

P.s. Sorry! I appreciate all the help! Just call me impatient

[Steve]

Oooops...

Unfortunately, I seem to be falling into the same rut that others on this forum have...

I only read your post, and not everything around it. 8-[ Definitely my bad.


Have you taken a voltage reading at the battery with the bike running?

When you are checking to make sure all your connections are clean and tight, don't forget the battery terminals, too.

Also make sure the battery has enough electrolyte in it.


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[salty_monk]

I couldn't cause I had no fuses but I will tonight or tomorrow.

Battery is topped up & charged. Battery was new last year & connections very clean though the ones on the fuse box & rest of the bike were grimey (including the main ground - that ones a bugger to get to but I think if I can get the battery tray out then I can get to it...).

Fingers crossed [-o<

Dan