Adjusted shims blew out head gasket

[max]

So this valve adjust/carb synch job has been driving me nuts. After, the bike was sluggish in the lower rpms, and idled funny, not responding to the idle adjust screw and racing or dying. We were scratching out heads until attention was drawn to the line of oil around the head gasket.

Now this has always been an oily engine, but we decided to torque those bolts down anyways. 27 ft/lb right? Bolts on both sides were totally stripped. Well, the aluminum heads were, the bolts were fine. It looks like the threads in the block go all the way through, so I should just be able to get a longer bolt and put a nut on the other end, right? I'm talking about the 12mm bolt right next to the sparkplugs 1 and 4. We compression tested 1 and 4 and found a slow compression leak. My questions are these:

1. Could this be the cause of my problem, the air getting sucked in/blown out around the head gasket? Has the increased compression from properly adjusted valves blown out this failing and improperly tightened gasket?

2. Is a new head gasket definately in my future? Don't suppose there's some magic goo that would make a permanent repair?

3. I've never replaced a head gasket before on any engine. I've got a Haynes manual, but here is my concern: is there enough clearance between the engine and the frame to disassemble the head without dropping the engine? Any tricks to keeping the timing chain set while I replace the gasket? Any tips/tricks at all to this procedure?

This will be my most ambitious project to date. I'd appreciate any input you guys might have.

-Max

[Suzuki mad]

The main cylinder head bolts (14mm socket size) are 27ft/lbs torque, the two little 6mm bolts are only 5-8 ft/lbs!!!!!! Are these the one's that have stripped?

It is unlikely that the head would be lower on 1 and 4 but it is a possibility. If it's been an oily engine and run i'd have left it alone.

Before you start get the engine timed up and don't move it.

To get the head off and do the gasket isn't that difficult. The rocker box comes off OK as does the cam caps and cams themselves. The bigger problem is the head itself. If it's never been off it's likely that the barrels may come up aswell meaning that you will have to replace the base gasket also. (and rings so a quick hone is a good idea.)

With luck (the oily gasket) the head may come away without any problems.

Once you've got the head off I would take the steps to have the valves out, change the valve guide oil seals and check the valve seats dependant on the age/mileage of the engine so give it a refresh. Get the head checked for flatness and if needed skimmed flat.

Going back together the main problem is getting the cam to stay in place while getting the timing marks right.

With a lot of luck and forward planning a day's work...

Suzuki Mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1.

[mark]

I'm in the middle of this job right now.

If you pull the head, its almost a vitual certainty that the base gasket will need to be replaced. Both the head and base gasket are held on by the cylinder head bolts and in the process of removing the head, you'll have a hard time not breaking the seal on the base gasket.

Ask around, but I would plan on pulling the head and the block if you take on the job.

[chef1366]

You are talking about the inner two bolts right on both sides of the spark plug hole, right? Replace these nuts
If your retorqueing the head follow the right sequence and loosen the bolt first then tighten.
These bolts if not tightened down would give you low compression numbers. I've never had much luck with retorqueing leaky head gaskets but you might get lucky.