1980 GS1000 clutch help

[chefdizzle]

I posted this over at twtex.com and they referred me here.

I can't get the bike out of neutral. Everytime I start the bike and try to put it into 1st gear, it stalls out or dumps the clutch. Anyone have any suggestions?

I've tightened up the clutch cable but still no go. After it dies, with it still in gear, I hit the starter button and it lurches forward. I've already ordered a new set of Wiseco clutch plates as well as a clutch case cover and a new shifter shaft.

Any other advice, tips, or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Randall


edit: Also, I can't get it to shift past 3rd gear when the bike is off. I can go from neutral to 1st, back to neutral. 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd. After that it just won't go up to 4th. Bike has approx. 25k miles on it. Bike sat in my garage for about 2 months due to cold weather. Rode it perfectly fine about 3 months ago.

[robertbarr]

First the obvious stuff -- does your clutch lever feel right? Can you feel the spring resistance? You can watch the release lever on the right side. Does it move like it should?

Second -- sometimes the plates stick together if the bike's been sitting for a while. This was really common with the early 70's Honda twins. Those could usually be 'broken' apart with a bump or two.

Since it's so simple to do, I'd probably just pull off the clutch cover & reassemble the stack. It's possible you could 'bump' the clutch free, but it's only a few minutes to dig into the stack.

[focus frenzy]

hello and welcome to the GSR! I saw your post over on TWTEX but Tim got to you before I could, I am just down the road from you.

you need to watch the clutch lever on the case and see if it is moving evenly as you pull the clutch lever, if it is not you have a issue with the clutch cable, mine started acting that way very shortly before it snapped.

or it could be stuck plates.

you can put the bike on the center stand and fire it up and with the bike running in gear (back wheel up in the air) squeeze the clutch in all the way and while modulating the gas apply the rear brake, a quick hard jab of the rear brake should do the job.

the one thing that worries me is that you said it has only sat a couple months, for the plates to stick that fast you would need to have a serious condensation problem inside the engine.

if this doesn't help send me a PM, you are a short hop away, I can come have a look at it for you, I am a bit of a expert on 1000/1100 clutches.

[SkeletonLake]

Had the same problem; solved it by completely removing the clutch cable from the handgrip and the transmission case. Routed it exactly as the Clymer shows and adjusted it as per spec. It did not solve the problem but then saw it was the cable itself flexing(moving) when pulling in the clutch lever and so unable to release the pressure. Kind of like a point for the cable to pivot on if that makes sense. I used a hose clamp to fasten the cable to the frame under the tank; just tight enough to hold the cable in place but not so tight as to bind the cable inside the covering. Works just fine

[rphillips]

Durn it Focus, couldn't you see that Chefdizzle was trying to keep his location a secret, now everyone knows he's near Clerburn Tx.

[chefdizzle]

Durn it Focus, couldn't you see that Chefdizzle was trying to keep his location a secret, now everyone knows he's near Clerburn Tx.

Like anyone really knows where Cleburne, Texas is!

J/K Frenzy. I know where it's at b/c we go down to Lake Whitney all the damn time.


The clutch cable was replaced, before I got it at X-mas, with a new OEM one and rerouted as per the Clymer. I do know that the spline that the clutch release arm is connected on top of the case is a bit worn down. I've filed it down some and tightened the clutch release arm to compensate for the new fitting and it worked fine when I did it 4 months ago.

When the clutch plates were last looked at, the last owner never could get the proper gasket for the clutch case cover, so he used head gasket sealant. Could that be a possibility for condensation in the basket area?

[chefdizzle]

Does anyone have any tips for getting a squared out phillips head bolt out of the clutch case cover? I've got the other 9 out and new 6 point bolts for it, but I can't get that last one out. I'm afraid I might have to drill and tap it out, BUT I really don't want to have to do that. Or if anyone in the area can come out tomorrow around 4:30 to help me that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Randall

[chef1366]

Try an impact driver from Craftsman. Replace the phillips with allen head.

[focus frenzy]

Does anyone have any tips for getting a squared out phillips head bolt out of the clutch case cover? I've got the other 9 out and new 6 point bolts for it, but I can't get that last one out. I'm afraid I might have to drill and tap it out, BUT I really don't want to have to do that. Or if anyone in the area can come out tomorrow around 4:30 to help me that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Randall

DOH!! saw it to late! have you got it out?

[Suzuki mad]

Cut a slot in the screw head with a hack saw and use an impact driver to remove the screw with a flat blade bit.

I used a 'boa' (a type of easy out) to remove one from the sprocket cover but they are not as tight as the clutch cover so i woudln't go that way on this.

If the clutch is adjusted correctly and the cable operating there can only be two remaining problems.
1/ The clutch inner and outer baskets have scores which are holding the plates.
2/ There is a problem futher into the gearbox such as the selector forks which require a full strip out to change.

Suzuki mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1

[SPARKSS]

I posted this over at twtex.com and they referred me here.

I can't get the bike out of neutral. Everytime I start the bike and try to put it into 1st gear, it stalls out or dumps the clutch. Anyone have any suggestions?

I've tightened up the clutch cable but still no go. After it dies, with it still in gear, I hit the starter button and it lurches forward. I've already ordered a new set of Wiseco clutch plates as well as a clutch case cover and a new shifter shaft.

Any other advice, tips, or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Randall


edit: Also, I can't get it to shift past 3rd gear when the bike is off. I can go from neutral to 1st, back to neutral. 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd. After that it just won't go up to 4th. Bike has approx. 25k miles on it. Bike sat in my garage for about 2 months due to cold weather. Rode it perfectly fine about 3 months ago.

Howdy Randall. First of all, was it working correctly before...you said yes so there's no misrouting problem. Letting a bike with only 25k miles on it sit for a couple of months won't cause sticking clutch plates. Bikes I've owned, each for many years, sit for several months each year in temps down to -30C with no problems occurring each spring (current bike is a 79 GS1000 owned for about 13 years 86000+ km). As others mentioned, operate the clutch while observing the action of the lever on the case.....you're looking for stroke with NO WASTED MOTION from stretched inner cable or broken outer cable casing. Look for sideways movement of the shaft under that lever.....should be no significant movement. As others mentioned, does the load of the clutch (resistance felt when you pull the handle) feel normal? If not then you're into the clutch to see what is binding it.

Did you add anything other than good engine oil to the crankcase? Miracle or odd combinations of additives "might" cause the clutch friction plates to swell as the disintegrate, causing the problem you see (rare). Note that gasoline filling the crankcase (other problem) could aggravate or "maybe" cause this as well (severe case).

Was the failure gradual (increasing lever load or binding clutch action) or an abrupt failure? This will give you a clue as to whether it was a cable or chemical induced problem (gradual) or a broken linkage inside the case (light lever load and no clutch release etc).

My .02 worth.

[madjack57754]

I'd just drill the head off the offending bolt. Pull the cover over the remaining "stud" and then remove it with a pair of vice grips. I've done this many times with rebuilder bikes that have been much abused by the PO

[chefdizzle]

Howdy Randall. First of all, was it working correctly before...you said yes so there's no misrouting problem. Letting a bike with only 25k miles on it sit for a couple of months won't cause sticking clutch plates. Bikes I've owned, each for many years, sit for several months each year in temps down to -30C with no problems occurring each spring (current bike is a 79 GS1000 owned for about 13 years 86000+ km). As others mentioned, operate the clutch while observing the action of the lever on the case.....you're looking for stroke with NO WASTED MOTION from stretched inner cable or broken outer cable casing. Look for sideways movement of the shaft under that lever.....should be no significant movement. As others mentioned, does the load of the clutch (resistance felt when you pull the handle) feel normal? If not then you're into the clutch to see what is binding it.

Did you add anything other than good engine oil to the crankcase? Miracle or odd combinations of additives "might" cause the clutch friction plates to swell as the disintegrate, causing the problem you see (rare). Note that gasoline filling the crankcase (other problem) could aggravate or "maybe" cause this as well (severe case).

Was the failure gradual (increasing lever load or binding clutch action) or an abrupt failure? This will give you a clue as to whether it was a cable or chemical induced problem (gradual) or a broken linkage inside the case (light lever load and no clutch release etc).

My .02 worth.

The previous owner was told to put lucas stabilizer oil in with each oil change. He told me so, and that's what we've done.

The clutch cable has the corrected amount of stroke with each "pull and let go". That was the first thing we checked when I first started having this problem.

I've already got new clutch plates, clutch case cover, gasket, hex headed bolts, and gear shift shaft. With only one bolt to go, I figure it can't hurt but to go ahead with this particular R&R.

[SPARKSS]

Disregard using the Lucas oil stabilizer.....not required even a bit. Same holds true for any other snake-oil additives with respect to trying to help your bike live! Unless you're riding in extreme heat or freezing temps stick with the recommended engine oil viscosity (always make sure whatever oil you use at least shows an SAE service classification ident on it.....not just a viscosity!).
Additives (of which there are already a pile of in regular oil) can and often are a witches brew in many engines.....I've seen automotive engines where the owners tried this and that - if 1 is good 2 must be better etc....the gunk that congealed and caused failure was sometimes unbelievable to just remove!

[chefdizzle]

Ok, so I got the new clutch plates in. The old ones were so stuck together that they all came out as one collective piece.

So I got that taken care of.

Now, my brake light isn't lighting up when I tap the brake pedal. And I can't seem to get the clutch cable adjusted correctly. There's all kind of slack in it. I'm honestly ready to take it to a shop to have everything fixed on it.