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82 gs1100gl rebuild results.. not the best

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    #1

    82 gs1100gl rebuild results.. not the best

    Thanks for all the help regarding the timing issues etc. That all worked out fine. The bike fired up well. Idled great after a couple minutes. But quickly started to feel very very hot. The head, block, cam cover.... You couldn't go near it. As if it wasn't getting any oil. Turned it off for about 1/2 hour. Barely started then, very rough and missing. I pulled the plugs. They were black, so it doesn't seem to be too lean. (note: I hadn't rebuilt the carbs anyway just the head). Oil was also leaking badly from the vent hole under the starter when it was running. I did a compression test. 115,100,0,110. #2 read 0. With my finger it felt about the same as the other cyclinders so the 0 reading is a mystery. I connected the tester 3 times with the same results.
    Anyway, I waited a few hours, started fine and I rode it. It ran well and the oil leak at the vent seemed to disappear. It still was getting very hot though and the idle was very high and wouldn't lower anymore with the adjusting screw. Just over 2,000 rpm.
    It got late so I packed it in but I don't know which way to go with this. My first thoughts were 1) a problem because I hadn't removed the block along with the head and 2) I wondered about the assembly lube I was using. It was so thick and sticky I worried it may have clogged something and then somewhat thinned out after all the heat from running.
    Any thoughts or ideas would be a great help.
    Thanks again. Eddie V
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    #2
    Did you do the compression test on a warm motor and the throttle wide open?
    The assembly oil should not be a problem.
    Did you use any silicone seal at all? I would pull your valve cover off and blow some air into the drain channels on the head. If you don't have a compressor drain the oil and spray brake cleaner into the channels but let it drain well and give it time to dry.
    I don't know a good way to check your oil pump except for a guage. Check member Renobruce for one of those.
    After a rebuild of change your oil after 100 miles and the filter and oil after 500 miles.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      The engine was still pretty warm especially because it had ran so hot. It was shut down for awhile though. The plugs didn't burn me. The other cylinders were 100+ though. I've been thinking the valves should be adjusted. I was having trouble checking the clearances and since I didn't have a shim kit anyway I kept my fingers crossed that all would be well. I'm wondering if I may have misplaced any lifters. Would a leaky valve be so much so that it would cause 0 compression and if so would that cause the engine to get extremely hot?
      I'm trying to get it into the shop for a valve adjustment next week and take it from there. The oil leak from the vent hole seems to be a lot less after the second ride.
      Thanks for the feedback.
      Eddie V

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        #4
        With 0 compression RECHECK the valves before you run it again. Did you have some good fans running air over the motor. SOunds like you maybe have timing chain one tooth off

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