R/R update...Always do stator, too?

[jtolbert]

So, say my GS1100GL seems to be testing fine as far as voltage levels at different RPMs as indicated in the Stator Papers, but I'm worried about problems down the road. If I replace the R/R with the ElectroSport updated unit, should I always replace the stator with the ElectroSport piece at the same time, or is it okay to run with the stock stator if it hasn't gone south yet?

[DimitriT]

Let me say that if you're getting the correct voltage range from your RR then I wouldn't replace it. If you want to be proactive then you may want to add a jumper wire which goes directly from the RR ground to the battery ground. A while back I had a failing RR on my 750. It was putting out over 17v at around 3-4k RPMs. My battery was always low on fluid and I had to replace a blown headlamp bulb due to the high voltage. I decided to try the jumper. It reduced the output voltage down to 16v. I eventually replaced the unit with e Rick's Motorsports and it has worked perfectly since. The voltage is always between 13v and 14v. Both my bikes have digital voltage meters so I can monitor the state of the RR.

BTW, if you are considering ElectroSport, I believe there was a thread which compared them to Rick's. Nothing conclusive but it did seem that more people have run into failures using ElectroSport than Rick's.

[andrewclaycomb]

Do you have a link to buy Rick's r/rs?

[jm_foote]

I'm using an Electrosport r/r. I love it. Easy to install. Big, and has caused no troubles for me. I did not replace the stator, though I did buy a spare (I wasn't sure which one was shot). The stators are not the problem, the r/rs are. After market stators are really not improved all that much.

I would suggest upgrading to either a ricks or an electrosport even if you do not need it, because sooner or later your stock model will fry your system.

I would also suggest running the ground directly to the battery. I also put a voltmeter on mine (if you do, make sure to run a fuse in series). Mine is turned on and off by a relay that is connected to one of the spare wires used for running lights on a fairing.

As with all electrical, DO NOT USE CRIMPS. Solder and heat-shrink everything. And use dielectric grease where applicable.

[AOD]

I replaced only the R/R on my old GS and it resolved the charging problem.