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GS1100E Rear Brake Problem
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Originally posted by 45ACP View PostI have a 1980 GS1100E. When you depress the rear brake pedal, it will no go back to its original position. The fluid level is ok, and the lever is clean and lubed, any ideas? I can't wait to get this out on the road, but I'm wary with the current condition. Thanks for any help - GabeCurrent stable:
85 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
87 Kawasaki ZL1000 Eliminator
99 Kawasaki ZRX1100 Eddie Lawson replica
15 Yamaha VMAX - The Maroon Monsoon
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45ACP
Sounds like your caliper is not releasing. When you spin the wheel and hit the brake, does it grab or not? Does it release when you let go of the brake? If not, sounds like a caliper rebuild would be in order, with new fluid throughout. Probably fix you right up!
If the caliper needs rebuilt, what is the best way to go about this? It is my first bike, and I don't want to mess it up any more than it is. Thanks guys!
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The straight end of the spring should be on a peg sticking out of the frame and the "hooked" end hooked onto the pedal.
I know it's been said but it sounds like a spring to me too.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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45ACP
Yeah, the spring connected as it should be. Once released, the lever pulls back, just not as far as it needs to. I sprayed a ton of wd-40 on the whole mechanism, and didn't notice any rust or debris coming out. I honestly don't think it is the caliper, but bikes and cars aren't my thing. I just to pay someone to fix it. For reference, the pedal is resetting about half way, and has about another 1/4 inch to go. It is frustrating because I haven't had a chance to ride it since I bought it.
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Open up the lid where you put the brake fluid in. What color is it? If it is brown and not clear you need to bleed it out. Find some hoses that fit over the nipple of the bleeder valves and put the ends into a bucket or something. I use coffee cans. You should have two bleeder valves on the caliper. Open the one first that is the farthest from the master cylinder. (inner one) Push down the brake lever and before releasing it tighten down the bleeder valve. Now do the other one. Repeat this until the fluid coming out of the bleeder valves is clear. Make sure you don't run the brake fluid fill chamber out of fluid or you will have to start all over. I hope this fixes your problem.Last edited by chef1366; 04-23-2007, 10:32 PM.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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45ACP
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Suzuki mad
Sounds like it could also be the lever is seizing in the frame!
Look at the back of rear brake pedal, where it goes through the frame. You should see a rod connecting it to the brake master cylinder. There is a small pin with a split pin going through it. Take that out which free's up the lever. Now apply the lever as if you were braking. If the lever does not return to its original position then it's your lever. One 13mm bolt to remove the lever from the rear bracket and pull the lever out. (You may have to take the foot rest off to.)
Wire brush, some emery cloth or one of the sanding pads to clean it up then a good smear of grease. Replace in reverse order, job done!
Suzuki mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1
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45ACP
Wow, you guys are great. Thanks for all the advice! I will let you know what happens, and any other tips let me know. Gabe
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