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    Removing old gasket from head and block

    1980 gs 1000,33,000 miles.I have the head and block off,new gasket set,now I am using solvent to clean off the old crud from all the parts.I was afraid to use a razor blade to scrape off the old block gasket and head gasket,but i dont see any other way to get all that crud off.I tried using plastic scrapers and nothing comes off that way.I figured if I made minute scratches taking off all the left behind gasket gunk my new gasket might not seal.If I was real careful maybe i use a razor blade? I need input asap.Thanks very much.Ron B
    future owner of some year and displacement GS bike,as yet unclaimed and unowned.

    #2
    Your bike has 10 million miles WOW
    Juat kidding
    Check your PM box.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      They've got some stuff called gasket remover which might work for you. I've never used it but some folks say good things about it. The gasket on my 550's valve cover came off in pieces with about 50% of it stuck to the head. I eventually got it off by gently using the razor blade to shave off the stuck pieces. I did put a few scratches into it which I rubbed out with some fine metal sandpaper. When I put the cover back I used a silicone rubber gasket and have not had any leaks. I've reused the rubber gasket 4 times now (due to a valve adjustments and a top end).

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        #4
        Originally posted by ron bayless View Post
        I am using solvent to clean off the old crud from all the parts.I was afraid to use a razor blade to scrape off the old block gasket and head gasket,but i dont see any other way to get all that crud off.

        I figured if I made minute scratches taking off all the left behind gasket gunk my new gasket might not seal.If I was real careful maybe i use a razor blade? I need input asap.Thanks very much.Ron B
        If you use a NEW safety razorblade, and some CRC gasket stripper it should be very easy to remove the old gasket.

        Watch for overspray into the pistons, and oil circuits.

        use a clean damp rag afterward, then something like CRC 5.52 or WD40 to lightly spray around, then a clean dry rag again.

        In the past 22 years I have done well over 2000 headgaskets on cars and motorbikes using this method and have never had a problem with a leaking headgasket afterward.

        Hope this helps.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by GS750 View Post
          If you use a NEW safety razorblade, and some CRC gasket stripper it should be very easy to remove the old gasket.

          Watch for overspray into the pistons, and oil circuits.

          use a clean damp rag afterward, then something like CRC 5.52 or WD40 to lightly spray around, then a clean dry rag again.

          In the past 22 years I have done well over 2000 headgaskets on cars and motorbikes using this method and have never had a problem with a leaking headgasket afterward.

          Hope this helps.
          Thanks guys!!!! Once again,you all came to the rescue!!
          future owner of some year and displacement GS bike,as yet unclaimed and unowned.

          Comment


            #6
            If your in a tight spot and you get some stubborn leftovers I used a very soft wire brush on a dremel to get rid of the finer small pieces. Like you I was paranoid about the razor blade pitting my motor in any way... but the wire brush on the dremel does the trick nicely, makes the work really easy too. You can buy bigger wire brushes for your drill too which you can use to get teh grime and other stuff off the head too. That also worked wonders for me when I was preping surfaces.

            Just my .02

            Good luck

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Kcwiro View Post
              If your in a tight spot and you get some stubborn leftovers I used a very soft wire brush on a dremel to get rid of the finer small pieces. Like you I was paranoid about the razor blade pitting my motor in any way... but the wire brush on the dremel does the trick nicely, makes the work really easy too. You can buy bigger wire brushes for your drill too which you can use to get teh grime and other stuff off the head too. That also worked wonders for me when I was preping surfaces.

              Just my .02

              Good luck
              Thanks friend,i appreciate it.
              future owner of some year and displacement GS bike,as yet unclaimed and unowned.

              Comment


                #8
                Rather than a razor blade I like to use an Exacto knife with a chisel blade - flat on the end not angled. I have much better control and don't gouge the surface as easily. There are a number of gasket softening solvents available which can really help - check your auto parts store.

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                  #9
                  yes,I have thought about that way too.I am going to get my gasket set soon and hate to have the whole thing held up by this simple problem that is trying to become a big problem.I can hardly wait to start putting it back together.I might not say that once i get started.
                  future owner of some year and displacement GS bike,as yet unclaimed and unowned.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I'm pretty weary of using a razor on aluminum... It may cause some scarring, but my problems is that it really just doesnt slide against the metal all that well. I would have to agree with a dremel and wire wheel. 3M also sales pads that are rubber with nubs on it. You attach it to a die-grinder and go to town. Doesnt remove much metal material at all, just the crud. I know chrysler requires us to have them (and use them) here at the shop, especially with almost all the new motors having aluminum blocks and heads.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Sounds like a bunch of pretty good suggestions here. I just got done doing this, and I "gingerly" used a freshly sharpened wood chisel. Then I lightly scrubbed with a scotch-brite pad. Very lightly.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Second the 3M gasket removers - very quick and does a nice job. worth every penny.

                        I haven't had very good luck with chemical gasket remover. maybe if it was only 5 or 10 years old, but on 20+ yr gaskets, it doesn't seem to do much.
                        Yamaha fz1 2007

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by spchips View Post
                          Second the 3M gasket removers - very quick and does a nice job. worth every penny.

                          I haven't had very good luck with chemical gasket remover. maybe if it was only 5 or 10 years old, but on 20+ yr gaskets, it doesn't seem to do much.


                          so if its only a 5-10 year old gasket on a motor that has done 40000Km/year, and the other is a 20 year old gasket on a motor that has sat in a shed for 10 years, and been ran 5000km/year it wont work?

                          Ive personally never had any troubles with the gasket remover in a can, of course it wont get everything off but that is where the aid of a safety razor helps.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            "Permatex" gasket remover worked for me. It took a few times and a lot of patience. I bought one of those gasket removal tools....never used a razer blade and let the gasket remover do most of the work. In the end a few scotchbrite pads took off the final residue. I guess I was helped the most by those who advised to take it easy with the scrapers and pads and stuff. Very easy.
                            Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2007, 08:16 AM.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by ron bayless View Post
                              Thanks friend,i appreciate it.
                              Hey no problem... glad I could offer some useful advice

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