Big problem - tensioner clicking??

[drejal]

one more note...

I found that if I lock the plunger on the chain tensioner down, as though it's a manual tensioner, the engine rotated smoothly. Started it again, and it's fine.

SO...unless someone knows why this might be a bad idea, I'm just gonna go with it!

dre

[drejal]

Stop turning the crank, read this:

Any chance you turned the crankshaft while the tensioner was not installed???
The valve spring's tension will cause the cams to POP to the next position as the chain skips a few sprocket teeth. Then if you ran the engine there could be all kinds of expensive noises coming out depending on how far the cam timing is out.

Check the timing marks on the crank and the marks on the cam, do not turn the crank unless the cam timing is correct and the tensioner is in place.

That click is the cam popping over to the next unsprung position.

wow, I just reread that and realized how bad it sounded. I never rotated the crank with the tensioner out!

thanks for your concern!

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. drejal,

Here is some wisdom that I've collected from this forum. It might help you.

Cam Chain Tensioner Repair
Reset Cam Chain Tensioner


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chef1366]

Don't run the bike with the tensioner locked down. Check the links that BassCliff gave you and put it in the right way.

[drejal]

Thanks for your guidance! It was because of these two guides that I decided to tackle cleaning the tensioner. (well, frankly, i consult basscliff's site and GSR before tackling any project!)

The confusing part is that the one on my 550L is a much simpler design. Two mounting bolts, allen head bolt with locking nut, pushrod with spring. So I have to skip over a lot of the "turn the knob" and "watch the knob when you..." because mine has no knob!

I'll be pulling the timing cover off to inspect what is going on with the cam chain. I figure it's better to actually SEE what is up with the chain rather than guess. It'll be a few days before I really can set aside time for the job, but I'll report back so hopefully the next guy with this problem will find a solution.

Again, thank you all for the help!

[tkent02]

The confusing part is that the one on my 550L is a much simpler design. Two mounting bolts, allen head bolt with locking nut, pushrod with spring. So I have to skip over a lot of the "turn the knob" and "watch the knob when you..." because mine has no knob!

It should have a knob, they all did.
ON the newer bikes they were plastic and occasionally melted, or maybe it just fell off.

Or is it an APE manual tensioner? The allen head bolt goes directly into the engine?

Much simpler design, some folks like them.

[drejal]

here's a pic. you can only see one side, but there is nothing on the other side.

(forgive the grunge I haven't cleaned yet!)

[chef1366]

If there is no spring or knob on the piece coming towards you in that pic you need another tensioner. The spring tension is what holds the tension on the piston that presses on the cam chain guide.

[drejal]

there is a spring on the shaft that pushes into the engine...the piece pointing toward the camera is an allen bolt with a lock nut. it acts as the set screw for the plunger/shaft. there is a cutout that it fits into.


edit...

looking at bwringer's photos of the procedure. there is a piece that has a spring that goes into the engine, sort of mushroom-headed. That piece is present. However there is no larger coiled spring that has the knob.

perhaps this is why i'm having a problem, are there supposed to be 2 springs on this model?

(79 GS550L)

[tkent02]

Looks like someone converted a stock automatic chain tensioner into a manual one.

If it works fine then that's OK, you just need to adjust it once in a while.

It all makes sense now, this explains why your questions did not match our answers. With this one, the locknut needs to be locked, if it is unlocked there is not enough tension, the spring alone won't do it. I don't know why the spring is there. So when you turned the engine with the locknut unlocked, the clicking was sprocket skipping a few chain links to relieve the valve spring tension.

If your chain has been jumping a few teeth on the sprocket, that is the click sound you are hearing. Because of this you need to check the cam timing before you run it. Very simple to check, it will save engine destroying damage Hopefully it has not been damaged already...

Good luck with that.

[drejal]

okay....glad it's clearer now!

I'll definitely verify the timing before I go any further.

thanks again!

[chef1366]

Does the tensioner have a two or three bolt pattern?
As I said I have some if you want to go with stock.