chain adjustment

[Jake]

I just bought a 1981 GS1100EX and the service manual is still in the mail. I need to tighten the chain, but before doing so I would like to know what I'm missing. On the swingarm, just above the axle, I see what looks to me like a measurement reference; 12 vertical lines. How can I use these refernce marks to my advantage?

[Steve]

If they are engraved correctly, there should be a single mark on the chain adjuster that locates the axle. When you get the chain to the proper tension, snug up the nut on the chain side of the wheel, notice where the index mark lines up, then match it on the other side. Your wheel should now be aligned within the swingarm.


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[bradleymaynar]

Okay, I'll add this question, since I've been a putz at properly adjusting the chain for proper tension and have destroyed a good chain and a rear sprocket.

What is the proper way to adjust the chain on the centerstand to ensure that the chain slack is correct? In the past I've done it by getting the slack into the recommended range while the bike is on the centerstand. However I think that as soon as the rear tire is on the ground and I'm on the bike, I've added enough weight to put too much tension on the chain.

Should I actually put more slack in the chain with my current method, therefore getting proper tension when the bike is actually on the ground?

I don't want to continue my current practice of replacing the chain and sprockets with each tire change.8-[

Sorry Jake, this isn't a thread hijack. I felt the answers to my questions would also be insightful to you.:-D

Brad bt

[Steve]

The chain will be at its tightest when the spricket centers and the swingarm pivot are all in a straight line. Try to use straps to compress the rear suspension to that point to adjust the chain properly. Now release the strap, measure the slack and use that measurement for future reference.


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[bradleymaynar]

The chain will be at its tightest when the spricket centers and the swingarm pivot are all in a straight line.

I'm assuming you mean level?

Brad bt

[Steve]

Does not matter if it is level, but on the center stand, it won't be very far off. Stretch a string from the center of the front sprocket to the center of the rear axle. Snug up the rear suspension until the string crosses directly over the swingarm pivot.


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[bradleymaynar]

Thanks Steve! Jake, I hope you're paying attention.

Brad bt

[Boondocks]

Chain adjustment measurement isn't critical. It's OK to adjust it on the center stand. The most common and worst mistake is to overtighten the chain, which will wear it out much faster than normal while it also stresses the sprockets and bearings. It is better to adjust the chain on the loose side of the specs, as long as it isn't hitting the swing arm and isn't so loose it can come off the sprockets. The chain will last much longer this way.

You don't need to use the reference lines to align the chain on the sprockets. Theoretically, they should give an accurate reference for alignment, but it's a rough cut in practice. I align the chain by first removing the chain guard. You can then sight along the chain, observing that it is straight between the sprockets. The chain can then be fine tuned for alignment between sprockets by observing the links on the rear sprocket. If the left or right side plates are touching the sprocket, the chain should be adjusted so that the sprocket rides in the center of the side plates when the wheel is rotated.

[bradleymaynar]

That has been what I tend to do for alignment. I think my problem has just been overtightening the chain. I had to toss my new rear sprocket when it had severely dished the teeth. Fortunately I still had the old sprocket. I figured I'd be good temporarily.

Brad bt