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    Clutch trouble...help!!

    I have an 86 gsx750x (pop-up h/light) , I recently took it out of storage and went for a ride, everything was fine. Two weeks later I started the bike, got ready, pulled in the clutch, put the bike in gear and it stalls right away. Its like I have no clutch all the sudden. It does have a hydraulic clutch. I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder but still nothing. How much movement should I have on my Clutch piston? right now it moves about 2mm when I squeeze the clutch lever, I did bleed the system thoroughly. It does shift so the tranny is fine, should the clutch not start slipping first before just going? do I need a new clutch piston rebuild kit?
    Any help is greatly appreciated
    Thank you,

    #2
    Thank God the GS's don't have a hydrolic clutch. Could be master, or slave, or air, or clutch plates, could adjust it, naw, it's probably not adjustable. Sorry.
    1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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      #3
      Nice reply....

      read the question, I know what a hydraulic clutch is ,what do you call a lever actutating a master cyclinder which sends fluid down a hose to a part called a clutch piston which pushes a rod onto the clutch plate to disengage it,and you think the 86 GSx never came with one then you should'nt be replying to this forum. Check your history my friend you will find you are wrong.

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        #4
        Do you have pressure at the clutch? Do you have good fluid pressure when bleeding? Did you bleed the master cylinder itself? Air does get trapped after a rebuild. Try a gravity bleed. Without the clutch lever attached try pushing in the piston with the old one with the M/C cap off and see if you get some bubbles to rise in the M/C.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          The GS, GSX, GSXR and the modern GSF have lots of similarity.

          When you took the GSX out of storage how had you stored it? Did you change the oil and what distance did you ride before stopping?

          If the gears shift across OK without the clutch it sound like a clutch operation to me. Start with the basics such as air in the hydraulics. I don't know the GSX750s model does it have a clutch release mechanisum (like the master cylinder on the handle bars but at the engine end?) If so it may be that at fault. Much like a brake seizing up after lack of use.....

          If not it could be a situation that either then actuating pin into the clutch from the hydraulics is worn/bent or that while being stored had begun to seize into place. Operating has mad it draw rubbish onto the shaft and get stuck therefore making the clutch hard to operate. Another consideration may be condensation inside the engine has rusted some of the clutch workings together making the clutch drag.

          Suzuki mad

          1981 GS1000ET
          1983 GS(X)1100ESD
          2002 GSF1200K1
          Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2007, 04:16 AM. Reason: post sounded wrong when read.

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            #6
            Thanks for your help

            The bike was stored but all fluids changed before riding. I did have the bike on the road about 10 days earlier and everything was fine then. Its when I went to go out again, I started the bike, let it warm up, got my gear on then proceeded to put it in gear but it was like the clutch was'nt engaged as the bike stalled instantly. I rebuilt the clutch master cyclinder, bleed it properly, also removed inspected and cleaned the clutch piston, it operates smoothly. When I actutate the lever though I only get about an 1/8" movement on the clutch piston. How much movement is needed? I am going to take the clutch cover off this weekend and inspect. Will a clutch just go without warning?
            Again your help is greatly appreciated, thanks to all.

            Comment


              #7
              A clutch will not 'go' just out of the blue. It give off signs prior to failing such as slipping or hard to operate.

              Normally if a clutch fails all of a sudden its usually down to abuse by the rider. (You wern't doing 1/4 miler's were you?)

              It would still suspect that there is a fault in the hydraulic system. If the arm is only moving a 1/8" then I would suggest that the system is not working correctly.

              Its going to sound like a stuck record but go over and check your work. Is the master cylinder pushing fluid, is there any air, clean and correct fluid.

              You stripped the master cylinder after finding the clutch to be faulty, did you check to it's operation prior to the rebuild or are we looking at faults that were already present? You made a decision to go for the master cylinder based on what?

              Suzuki mad
              1981 GS1000ET
              1983 GS(X)1100ESD
              2002 GSF1200K1

              Comment


                #8
                reply..

                No , no abuse, I have'nt done or ever do standing clutch drops. I took the clutch cover off and squezzed the clutch lever, I do get some action at the clutch but again not sure if its enough. The thing I'm not sure about is how much movement I should have. Its like the clutch is'nt disengaging from the engine. I dismantled the clutch plates and measured the thickness and the springs. The springs are above the minimal level but am close on the plates. But I'm thinking it can't be the plates as if they were gone I would'nt have such a grab when I put it in gear, but I could be wrong on this thought. I'm thinking its the clutch piston set-up as when listening close I can hear what sounds like air leaking, thinking its disengaging the clutch but not holding there. Very Frustrating, can usually figure things out by this point.
                Thanks again for your help

                Comment


                  #9
                  If your master cylinder is good, all the air is out, it makes perfect sense that the seal in the clutch release mechanisum has failed. You may not be able to see fluid comming out but if you hear air, not good.

                  The mechanisium should move enough to push the rods allowing the plates of the clutch to open. If you look at the basket the last one should come out almost as far as the end of the basket.

                  I DON'T HAVE A MANUAL OR OWNED THIS BIKE SO I AM ONLY SUMMIZING AGAINST OTHER GS/GSX/GSXR AND GSF's!

                  I couldn't find your bike on Alpha sport so I couldn't find out if there's a repair kit for the mechanisium.

                  Suzuki mad

                  1981 GS1000ET
                  1983 GS(X)1100ESD
                  2002 GSF1200K1
                  Last edited by Guest; 05-04-2007, 03:23 AM. Reason: dough....

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thats gotta be it

                    That must be it then, the clutch piston, its the only thing that makes sense as the last disc only comes out a bit, there is lots of room for it to move yet. Makes sense too that that would just go suddenly should a leak happen. I also read that these clutch must have their fluid changed at least (if not more) every 2 years because of the work they do and how often its used. I have had the bike for just over two and this is the first time I have changed it. Lesson learned. I will rebuild the clutch piston and let you know how it turns out.

                    Thanks again for all the help, very much appreciated

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Can I be so bold to suggest a few things.

                      1/ Please check the handlebar master cylinder is operating correctly.
                      2/ Make sure that you have all the air out of the hydraulic system.
                      3/ Once 1 and 2 are completed then check the clutch operation.
                      4/ And only when 1 to 3 have been completed strip down the clutch operation mechanisum.

                      My GS1000's rear brake wasn't working to great. I stripped the calliper out and it all looked OK. Put it back on the bike and it failed. turned out that the fluid had started to solidify in the calliper. Cleaned it all out and new seals it's like new.
                      My GSX1100 front brakes weren't working. A m8 took them home and worked on them. When refitted they were still sh*t. I'm still getting air out even now a year later....

                      Bottom line it has to be either end. Now there's a third with the whole thing sealing e.g. AIR. Did you fit new seal washers?

                      Suzuki mad

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