broken bolt help

[tconroy]

Stop right where you are and take it somewhere to fix it.Then order a manual and READ IT from cover to cover then you will be able to work on your bike.These bikes take time and patience. Anything you do to your bike without thinking it over a long time first usually winds up in a disaster.

[80GS750]

Why ask? You never took anybody's advice to heart up to this point. You did what everybody told you not to do. Do whatever you damn well please.

Yeah, I know, and I really do apologize in advance. That's kind of a nasty reply, no it is a nasty reply and I am sorry. But dammit why did you bother to ask if you weren't going to listen???

i wanted a general consensus as to what everyone else did in this situation and what worked and did not work...

i wasnt looking to ignore any ones advice...

some people had success removing the bolts themselves. obviously i would want to try to get it out myself before tearing the whole bike apart and paying someone else to do something i can do.

i have only been on this site for a couple days... isnt this forum meant for people to share knowledge and experience? sorry if i tried something others have done and it didnt work for me.

[80GS750]

my goal with this bike was to get it on the road fast and cheap... but now things have changed and yea i probably do need a manual. initially that was not the case as i do have a moderate amount of mechanical knowledge and dont require to read every line just to change a spark plug or clean out a carb. i dont want any of you to feel i took your advice without actually thinking about it...

i appreciate every one of your opinions.

[80GS750]

im going to get ahold of a machenist here in omaha and have them fix the bolts. thank you everyone for your help

[jimcor]

im going to get ahold of a machenist here in omaha and have them fix the bolts. thank you everyone for your help

Well, I really am sorry you've had the trouble and once again I do apologize for that nasty post.

I just think of all the times I did the same thing you did, knowing I could do it, when the general consensus was, "No, you can't we tried, we failed and paid for it. Don't you do it too." But I did and failed and paid the price.

Next time you encounter a stuck bolt before you break it off research what to do. You CAN get them out without snapping them off. Sorry, I get frustrated. I've been in your shoes, just last year. With advice from the GSR, I was able to remove all of the carb manifold screws without breaking one. They were big time stuck.

Don't let this keep you away from the GSR. Let us know how it goes.

[tconroy]

We all want the same thing and that's to keep the GS's on the road and help each other any way we can.Sometimes it's frustrating trying to help somebody when you can't actually be there to lend them a hand.Please put these posts in the past cause the damage is done.Move on to step 2 and get it fixed so you can get on the road.We all make mistakes and learn from them and try to stop others from making the same mistakes.The Gs resources is sort of like one big family so sometimes you will get yelled at like a brother,I guess that's because we all care about each other since we all have something in common,The GS!

[terbang]

A way back when I was an apprentice we were taught to remove flush broken studs and the key is accurate drilling. What you need to do is find the exact centre of the broken stud, mark it and start progressively drilling with larger and larger drills until there is essentially only the thread part of the stud left which can often be just wound out like a spring with a pair of long pliers preserving the origional internal tapped thread. This assumes all has been done correctly and in reality, as in the case of a an awkward spot like a GS exhaust stud, It doesn't work out perfect and the best fall back is to drill and tap for the next larger size or drill and tap to fit a Helicoil.

Psyguy, I picked up a tube of copperslip in CHC years ago and I am sure it, or similar, is available in any good engineering suppliers. It is just a type of grease that has a component (copper I guess) in it that survives the heat of an exhaust port. Best preventative maintenance that I have ever used.

[80GS750]

im definately gonna take it in...... its not destroyed yet, but i know when to stop so i will just pay for it now... ive done stuck bolts before and got them free, these are just a little more difficult than most. thanks again for all the info guys and i am glad to be a part of the family here...

i just cant wait to get my gs on the road!

[earlfor]

I have a quart can of it that I "appropriated" about 15 years ago. :-) Its like gold. heheheh

E.

In the states it's usually refered to as 'anti-sieze compound'. Pricey stuff, but darn well worth it.

[earlfor]

Just a comment, There is cheap and there is quick. Usually, neither of those approaches work with old motorcycles. You really do need to get a manual for the bike. If you need to remove the head, you will need a new head gasket, base gasket, stud "O" rings. The camchain does not get separated. The tension is taken off the automatic cam chain tensioner and the cams "rotate" out from under the cam chain. You will also need the torque table for the various bolts and you will need to understand how to set up the tensioner for re-installation. It does NOT just bolt back into place. There is a proceedure that must be followed. You will also need to know which way various marks MUST be aligned and how to "roll" the cams back into position and the correct pin count on the chain between marks.
The cams do not get installed on the marks straighaway. The rotate onto the correct mark during placement. I dont expect you quite understand what I'm trying to convey. thats why you need a manual. Yeah, you will need to read it word for word, because the word you skip will be the one thats the cause of the bent valves you will have if you dont.
There are no quick and easy ways. Either its right or its wrong. LOL
Welcome to the GSR. We really do try to help around here, but I know sometimes it may not seem so. hehehe

E.

im definately gonna take it in...... its not destroyed yet, but i know when to stop so i will just pay for it now... ive done stuck bolts before and got them free, these are just a little more difficult than most. thanks again for all the info guys and i am glad to be a part of the family here...

i just cant wait to get my gs on the road!

[steely]

As far as "anti-seize" goes: I have a bunch of old hot-rodders as friends, and one of them suggested using Milk of Magnesia as an anti-seize compound. I have yet to try it (I use the copper stuff) but the guy who suggested it to me (retired) used to work on gas turbine engines. He said that they were constantly having problems with one certain type of engine having seized bolts that they would have to send back to the factory to have corrected. The factory rep came out one day and told them to use MOM on the bolts. Just to dip the bolts in it before installation. He has been using this on his exhaust bolts for years with out one sticking on him. Apparently MOM is chalk and water. Chalk will not burn at exhaust temps. It will discolor, but it will still be there as a barrier between the dissimilar (or similar) metals.

YMMV

[earlfor]

And if the stuck bolts are giving you indigestion, a little for the bolt, and a sip for the mechanic.

E.

As far as "anti-seize" goes: I have a bunch of old hot-rodders as friends, and one of them suggested using Milk of Magnesia as an anti-seize compound. I have yet to try it (I use the copper stuff) but the guy who suggested it to me (retired) used to work on gas turbine engines. He said that they were constantly having problems with one certain type of engine having seized bolts that they would have to send back to the factory to have corrected. The factory rep came out one day and told them to use MOM on the bolts. Just to dip the bolts in it before installation. He has been using this on his exhaust bolts for years with out one sticking on him. Apparently MOM is chalk and water. Chalk will not burn at exhaust temps. It will discolor, but it will still be there as a barrier between the dissimilar (or similar) metals.

YMMV

[80GS750]

Just a comment, There is cheap and there is quick. Usually, neither of those approaches work with old motorcycles. You really do need to get a manual for the bike. If you need to remove the head, you will need a new head gasket, base gasket, stud "O" rings. The camchain does not get separated. The tension is taken off the automatic cam chain tensioner and the cams "rotate" out from under the cam chain. You will also need the torque table for the various bolts and you will need to understand how to set up the tensioner for re-installation. It does NOT just bolt back into place. There is a proceedure that must be followed. You will also need to know which way various marks MUST be aligned and how to "roll" the cams back into position and the correct pin count on the chain between marks.
The cams do not get installed on the marks straighaway. The rotate onto the correct mark during placement. I dont expect you quite understand what I'm trying to convey. thats why you need a manual. Yeah, you will need to read it word for word, because the word you skip will be the one thats the cause of the bent valves you will have if you dont.
There are no quick and easy ways. Either its right or its wrong. LOL
Welcome to the GSR. We really do try to help around here, but I know sometimes it may not seem so. hehehe

E.

thanks man, i do understand what you mean. i was looking at the way it was put together and noticed it would be tricky. i will definately get a manual if i tear it apart.

[80GS750]

And if the stuck bolts are giving you indigestion, a little for the bolt, and a sip for the mechanic.

E.

haha thats good, i get heartburn all the time!

[psyguy]

Psyguy, I picked up a tube of copperslip in CHC years ago and I am sure it, or similar, is available in any good engineering suppliers. It is just a type of grease that has a component (copper I guess) in it that survives the heat of an exhaust port. Best preventative maintenance that I have ever used.

yup, i see, like a high melting point grease. that's what i use too.
but do you have studs and nuts as oposed to bolts?
cheers