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Ran without battery, now only 2 cylinders fire

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    Ran without battery, now only 2 cylinders fire

    Well I've made a stupid mistake!

    I purchased a 1983 Suzuki GS1100L a while ago and got it running alright. There was a lack of power in the mid-range, but it ran okay. I took the tank off the other night to install an inline fuel-shutoff valve (until I get a new petcock). I put everything back together and decided to jump the bike instead of hook the battery back up (as it was charging in my basement.) DUMB MISTAKE. I used a jumper box (the portable kind) and got the bike going. Right after it started I disconnected the jumper box. I gave the engine a rev, all the lights got bright, and I blew the lowbeam and neutral indicator lights. I replaced the bulbs and everything works now... EXCEPT:

    Only 2 cylinders are firing. It will start and run, but only on 1 & 4. 2 & 3 aren't getting spark. I tested coils by switching leads. The coils are both producing spark, but with only the leads from the original 1/4 coil. SO... I traced the wires back and came to the igniter. The fuses all seem to be in good shape. I haven't done anything else yet. I have the manual. Any suggestions on where to begin? I have scoured the forums but would love to hear a straightforward answer if anyone's had the same problem...

    Please advise if you have the time.
    -A
    Last edited by Guest; 05-06-2007, 11:09 PM.

    #2
    If you used one of those jumper boxes, the odds are about 20 to 1 that the voltage level burned out one side of the ignitor box and thats why you have lost two cylinders. New ignitor boxes (if you can get one) were about $450 last time I checked. You can get a new Dyna S ignition system for under $200. It never pays to be impatient or look for the quick and easy way.
    Hard lesson to learn.

    E.
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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      #3
      I am seeing both the Dyna S systems and the 1100 Igniter boxes on ebay for about $135. Does anyone else concur with earlfor's reply? I suppose I ought to test the igniter with the steps in my Clymer manual. And indeed it doesn't pay to be impatient! Arg.

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        #4
        I will echo that- I just bought what I was told was an ignitor box from a boneyard ($150) and since I am dumb it turned out to be a blinker component, my bike does not have an ignitor! WTF!

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          #5
          Go with the Dyna S. It uses no igniter and hooks straight from the crank trigger and pickups to the coils.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            BEFORE DOING anything disconnect the reg/rect. Get the bike running, take it for short ride even. With a warm engine Reconnect the reg/reg an immediately check the charging circuit you may need a new regulator
            Monitor the voltage as you SLOWLY increase the RPM's If it get over
            15-16 volts shut it down

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              #7
              I'll try this (SqDancerLynn1) when I get home. Wouldn't the new lights have blown when I replaced them though? After replacing the headlamp and neutral light I started it up and everything seemed normal (minus the problem with the cylinders 2 & 3).

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                #8
                Originally posted by bfpd630 View Post
                I will echo that- I just bought what I was told was an ignitor box from a boneyard ($150) and since I am dumb it turned out to be a blinker component, my bike does not have an ignitor! WTF!
                ROFLAO!!!! oops sorry

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                  #9
                  Okay... Good news (I think)
                  I followed my manual and eliminated the following as problems:

                  1. Coils: these are good as I've mentioned earlier
                  2. Rectifier/Regulator: good... while running at ~5000rpm the battery was a little over 14v. The manual says this means the charging system is functioning... does this mean the alternator is okay? Clymer lead me to believe that this does mean the entire charging system is okay.
                  3: all fuses seem to be intact

                  I couldn't figure out how to test the signal generator because I couldn't isolate the Blue and Green wires (as they are in a harness with 2 other wires. BUT, the signal generator goes into the igniter unit, and 1 of the coils is producing spark, so the signal generator must be fine.

                  So can I be pretty certain it's the igniter? I took the igniter apart... it's a circuit board with lots of resistors and whatnot... I couldn't see any visible signs of problems (burnt parts, disconnected solder points, etc.) Also, what's the deal with these Dyna S jobs.. is it plug and play? Sounds like it's a bit of work getting timing right?

                  PS: While testing the voltage the bike ran great (although on 2 cylinders)...

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                    #10
                    Okay, I've just ordered a CDI box from a 100% + seller on ebay. $129 dollars that will hopefully do the trick. I believe the charging system is stable. I'll re-post with results.
                    -A

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                      #11
                      Dyna S baby! Do NOT replace it with another stock ignitor -- it'll just go out again eventually.

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                        #12
                        Okay... WELLLL I replaced the Ignitor box and she's running like a charm... I checked the voltage on the battery terminals at ~5k rpm and she seems to be in great shape. No Dyna. I don't know how long I am going to hold onto this bike anyhow...

                        Thanks for all of the tips everyone!

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