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Problem starting bike - Bad starter, or what?

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    Problem starting bike - Bad starter, or what?

    I posted to the wrong part of the forum. Here's my original post: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=107897

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks!
    Jay

    #2
    Lay a screwdriver over the two large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns quickly you need a solenoid. If starter turns slowly check the battery and charging system. If it doesn't turn at all clean or rebuild the starter.
    Alternator-Starter-Repair Parts for Motorcycle:Scooter:Snowmobile:ATV:PWC:Garden Tractor:Golf Carts:Utility Carts:Small Engines:Industrial Engines More!


    See stator papers http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Not the starter, nor the solenoid, now what?

      I finally got a chance last night to dig in and figure out what's going on. I checked my battery and it had 12.4 volts at 11 amps (should be 14). I tried jumping the solenoid, but nothing happened. I got sparks off the terminals, so I know current is passing. So I figure I'll pull the starter. I get it out and just for kicks I hook it up to a car battery - the thing spins easy and fast.

      So, back to the bike. I had charged the battery up for 4 hours or so - the gauge on the charger didn't indicate it needed it, but whatever. I hook everything back up and the solenoid just clicks.

      So I figure my battery is crap again. Every year I have to buy a new one. I did a continuity test between the two unhooked battery leads with the key off and there IS a closed circuit somewhere!?! It's only a few ohms, but that explains the battery drain, right? Where the heck can I be grounded out? All the wires seem good. Help.

      At this point I also feel that I need to replace the stator - am I wrong?

      Thanks,
      Jay

      Comment


        #4
        It may be your starter clutch. Can you bump start the motor?
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Yup, I can bump start it all day long. After putting the battery on the charger for a few hours, I put it back in the bike and gave it a shot - the starter turned maybe half a turn then stopped, but not a halting stop, gradual-like - then the solenoid sat there clicking, then nothing at all.

          Comment


            #6
            Take the battery to an auto supply place like NAPA or such & ask them to do a LOAD TEST on the battery. That will tell you if the battery is good or not. I have one specifically for motorcycle batteries & if you are inSocal I can do it for you. Ray.

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              #7
              Just hook up jumper cables from your bike to your NON-running car battery. If the bike turns over fine then you know your bikes battery is at least one of the problems. Also, testing the starter with no load on it at all only shows that you have at least some minimal amount of juice getting through. If the starter motor insides are dirty (VERY common - see other posts) then you could have a significant amount of resistance in the starter motor itself, severely degrading performance under load.

              Comment


                #8
                I dug out the old load tester we have here at work and was not too surprised with the results. Without load, the battery is at 11.8 volts. Once the load is applied, it dives down to 3.6 volts. I think I found the problem.

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