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carb problems 82 gs650

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    carb problems 82 gs650

    Hi all, well here goes, Origonal problem started with the bike only being able to be started with full choke and starting fluid. She wouldnt idle. Carbs were pulled, rebuilt, they are stock. Needle valve prelimanry setting 11/2 turns each, new boots and o rings installed. Float height set to spec, I believe all work done correctly. Thumb idle screw turned all the way down. Stock exhaust, stock air intake. All vacumn diaphramns looked good and tabs put back the way they came out.
    Bike started on full choke, no starting fluid. Idled fine for just a short time then right back up to 6000 rpm. Check plunger on petcock, looks ok. Carb lines to gas tank are on the right way. What am I overlooking. Machine will not idle down. Any ideas ? Dumbfounded.

    #2
    Originally posted by frstsuzuki View Post
    Hi all, well here goes, Origonal problem started with the bike only being able to be started with full choke and starting fluid. She wouldnt idle. Carbs were pulled, rebuilt, they are stock. Needle valve prelimanry setting 11/2 turns each, new boots and o rings installed. Float height set to spec, I believe all work done correctly. Thumb idle screw turned all the way down. Stock exhaust, stock air intake. All vacumn diaphramns looked good and tabs put back the way they came out.
    Bike started on full choke, no starting fluid. Idled fine for just a short time then right back up to 6000 rpm. Check plunger on petcock, looks ok. Carb lines to gas tank are on the right way. What am I overlooking. Machine will not idle down. Any ideas ? Dumbfounded.
    Well assuming the throttle cable is on properly (don't laugh! I did this one time!) you may wanna look for a air leak. Sometimes the rubber intakes will become hard and no longer seal if they are disturbed.

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      #3
      throttle cable is on coreectly and I already replaced the boots and o rings.
      thanks

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        #4
        Originally posted by frstsuzuki View Post
        Thumb idle screw turned all the way down.
        It sounds like an idle mixture/sync issue. I think you will need to hook up the mercury sticks to check/adjust sync and at the same time adjust your idle mixture.

        Before you do this it may be worthwhile to try a "bench-sync". This just means to adjust the sync screws so that the throttles look even with the carbs off the bike. Use a piece of thin wire as a feeler gauge to help set the throttle openings evenly to start with. This usually gives a good enough sync to idle at 1500 RPM or so. You then use the mercury sticks to get the last bit of adjustment.

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          #5
          One thing you didn't mention...

          Is your air-box properly close and is your air filter properly oiled? You could have an air leak at the box if not properly 'closed', and I've read that the foam filter, if not oiled can act like an air leak....

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            #6
            Make sure a slide isn't sticking and you put the diaphragm slide springs back in properly.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              One part of your statement is what I am suspecting:

              Originally posted by frstsuzuki View Post
              Thumb idle screw turned all the way down.

              Just what do you mean by "turned all the way down"? It is likely that you have it turned too far.

              Turn the screw counter-clockwise, watching the throttle linkage while you do this. Continue until the throttle stops moving. You might even feel a little less pressure on the knob, since it's no longer trying to hold the throttle open. Go back to where it feels like you are starting to move the throttle again, then go one more turn. Now try starting the bike, but only after you throw the starting fluid in the trash can. It is too easy to get carried away with that stuff and too easy to do damage with it. On a cold engine, use full choke and NO throttle. If the engine races, back off a bit on the choke. Eventually you will find the sweet spot on the choke to be able to start it and keep the rpm under 2000-2500 so you don't race an oil-starved engine.

              When the engine is warmed up, try tweaking the idle mixture screws a bit. You might find that 2 to 2 1/2 turns will work better, but it should start OK with 1 1/2.



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                #8
                Recently had similar problem with GS650E 81. It started to stop feeding fuel to carbs unless tank fuller and fuller as time passed. As time passed more pressure had to be applied by a fuller tank. Diaphragm "looked" good to the mechanic but it actually proved to NOT to be good enough to do the job right. Decided to change the whole fuel petcock but most probably diaphragm only would have made it.

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