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83 GS1100E starting problem

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    #1

    83 GS1100E starting problem

    I have only had the bike for a little more than a week. I have put more than 200 miles on since then. All of the sudden tonight I went to start it and the battery was too weak to start. I jumped the battery and it started fine. I stoped and started the bike a few times and everything was ok. Then it did it again. So I took the battery out and it was low. What I did notice the other morning on my way to work was that the headlights seem to dim when I am speeding up? I have read a few things on the regulator and the stators I am thinking one of these or booth are bad. The bike has a brand new battery. What do you guys think? Andy
    Tags: None
    #2
    Check the stator papers. http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment

      #3
      Start by making sure all the battery, stator and r/r connections are clean and tight.

      Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals, read the voltage, start the bike, read the voltage at idle. Slowly increase the rpm to about 2000-2500, noting the voltage. Battery should be over 12.5 with everything off. At idle could be anything from 12 to 13 or more. At 200-2500 should be over 14. If it's not, start going through the stator papers to find what is not doing what it should.


      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment

        #4
        Do a load test on the battery after you have fully charged it. Ray.
        Last edited by rapidray; 05-14-2007, 11:49 PM.

        Comment

          #5
          Ok so I finally had a few minutes to look the bike over tonight. I noticed that with the bike setting and idleing that the r/r gets very hot and so do the wires coming from the stator(hot enough to slowly melt the electrical tape).So I read in the Sator Papers that when this happens your stator is putting out way to much juice which causes the r/r to get hot and burn up. So I am thinking that the stator is toast along with the r/r. What do you guys think. At the moment I have very little time to get this baby back on the road. The wife and I are expecting our first child in 3 weeks and I am working like crazy. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Andy

          Comment

            #6
            Electrically speaking, I don't think there is any way for the stator to "put out way too much juice". It generates current based on engine rpm. The regulator WILL get warm because it has to control the excess current.

            First of all, why is there tape on the stator wires? Take it off to see what is under there. If somebody just twisted wires together [-X or used crimp-on connectors #-o, do yourself a favor, solder the wires and cover them with heat-shrink tubing. Heat at a connection shows that it is not a good connection.

            To help make sure the regulator can do its job correctly, extend the ground wire directly to the battery. When the regulator is regulating, it momentarily shorts the excess current to ground, so it needs a GOOD path to follow. If it can't get to a good ground, it stays in the regulator in the form of heat, which is not good for the regulator.


            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              Electrically speaking, I don't think there is any way for the stator to "put out way too much juice". It generates current based on engine rpm. The regulator WILL get warm because it has to control the excess current.

              First of all, why is there tape on the stator wires? Take it off to see what is under there. If somebody just twisted wires together [-X or used crimp-on connectors #-o, do yourself a favor, solder the wires and cover them with heat-shrink tubing. Heat at a connection shows that it is not a good connection.

              To help make sure the regulator can do its job correctly, extend the ground wire directly to the battery. When the regulator is regulating, it momentarily shorts the excess current to ground, so it needs a GOOD path to follow. If it can't get to a good ground, it stays in the regulator in the form of heat, which is not good for the regulator.


              .
              Ditto, Ditto and ditto.

              Check each of these before you start buying parts. Had the same symptons and found the RR connector was bad. Replaced the connector with some quality butt splices and all is well.

              Picture of overheated connector due to poor connection...
              Last edited by bonanzadave; 05-16-2007, 10:05 AM.
              82 1100 EZ (red)

              "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

              Comment

                #8
                My connection looks almost the same but not quite as bad. I will check that out tonight. It's going to the mechanic Friday to have a tire put on it and he's going to look it over it I don't have it fixed. Thanks fo the help. Andy

                Comment

                  #9
                  Well we figured out what the problem was. One, some of the connections had some serious corrotion. Two the regulator was fired due to the stator. The bike was charging fine when idleing. But when you gave it gas it would drop to 9 volts. So we ordered a new r/r and stator from Ricks Motorsports. Hopefully the mechanic will have it done by Wensday. I was going to do everything myself but I have been working like crazy lately so for $55 he will do everything (labor) and clean all the connections behind the headlight. I can't wait to get it fixed the weather is going to be nice pretty much all week. Thanks for the help.

                  Comment

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