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shift rod seal
Anyone have a trick to getting the shift rod seal out? I would like to do it without taking the clutch apart. Anybody done this before? I guess if I have to I'll pull the clutch, then the rod, then the seal...but thats a b*tch.
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Forum SageCharter Member
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 3869
- The Gulf Coast of south Florida in the winter and northern Nevada in the summer
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Do a search and I think you'll find good information. (I remember seeing this discussed in the past). I've never done it on a Suzuki but on my last Yamaha, it was quite easy....but a little tricky.1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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runrx02
well never mind, ended up drilling 2 holes on opposite sides of each other. then gently screwed drywall screws into the holes, forcing the seal out. the screws were dulled so it wouldn't score the aluminum. worked pretty well
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Originally posted by runrx02 View Postwell never mind, ended up drilling 2 holes on opposite sides of each other. then gently screwed drywall screws into the holes, forcing the seal out. the screws were dulled so it wouldn't score the aluminum. worked pretty well
I'm from Canton Ohio. Actually Canal Fulton but who ever heard of that little town?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by runrx02 View Postwell never mind, ended up drilling 2 holes on opposite sides of each other. then gently screwed drywall screws into the holes, forcing the seal out. the screws were dulled so it wouldn't score the aluminum. worked pretty well
cool!GS850GT
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runrx02
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostI'm from Canton Ohio. Actually Canal Fulton but who ever heard of that little town?
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My mother and many ex-girlfriends attended Akron U.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Livewire Racing
A pic would help
Originally posted by runrx02 View Postwell never mind, ended up drilling 2 holes on opposite sides of each other. then gently screwed drywall screws into the holes, forcing the seal out. the screws were dulled so it wouldn't score the aluminum. worked pretty well
Thanks,
Paul
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runrx02
Sorry, it's all buttoned up. Drill a small hole on each side of the seal and then screw a screw into the holes. The screw will hit the metal behind the seal, then force the seal out. Just be careful with placement of the screws because you don't want to mar the aluminum on the sides. Also be sure to dull the tip of the screw.
worked for the clutch rod seal as well as the shift rod seal
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Livewire Racing
Originally posted by runrx02 View PostSorry, it's all buttoned up. Drill a small hole on each side of the seal and then screw a screw into the holes. The screw will hit the metal behind the seal, then force the seal out. Just be careful with placement of the screws because you don't want to mar the aluminum on the sides. Also be sure to dull the tip of the screw.
worked for the clutch rod seal as well as the shift rod seal
Thanks, in advance.
Paul
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runrx02
i put a little oil on the sides of the seal them slide in, then used an appropriately sized socket and rubber mallet as a driver. the shift rod has a clip and a washer in front of the seal.
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