1980 GS1000L minor issues

[ooqueso]

First off, I did search. I knw how much forum goers hate repeat questions, but I failed to find the information I was looking for.

Currently, the only issues I have with my bike are a high idle and a possible leak. I've got plenty of experience with my 2000 GS500 twin carbs, but I haven't a clue how to synch 4 carbs.

I'll be looking over the bike more closely tomorrow morning, and will probably start tearing into it before next week. I can't do much serious work to it due my current... ahem... situation. So, I'd like any advice you all have before I start!

[Steve]

Is the high idle only after the bike warms up? If so, it's probably the o-rings in the intake tubes (Between the tubes and the head). Classic problem on these old bikes.

Lots of info on synching carbs, but here is the short version. First, you need a set with four gauges. You can use dial-type gauges or mercury sticks. Warm the engine to operating temp. Install the adapters that come with the gauges into the ports in the intake tubes. Supply fuel to the engine and block the intake port that goes to the petcock. Start the engine, set the idle speed to the Suzuki-recommended 1700 rpm to see what the readings are. #3 is your 'master' carb, there are adjuster screws with locknuts between all the carbs. Turn the screw between #3 and #2 to bring #2's reading to the same as #3. Adjust #1 to match, then #4. Suzuki recommends #2&3 to be about .5 cm lower than #1&4.

While you have the gauges connected, tweak the idle mixture screws (after you return idle to 1000 or so) to obtain the highest rpm from each one. Check the sync to make sure nothing changed. Remove the gauges, install the tank and go ride.


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[Freddy]

Steve why do you block off the vac line on #3 carb if you are using this for your fuel line feed?. I have just spent some 3-4 hours trying to sync my carbs on my 79 GS1000L with mercury sticks and have got the idle down to 1200rpm and all the heights pretty much 14 on outer two and 13.5 on inner two. The problem I have now is the bike was running sweet as and did not miss a beat and now after getting a good idle it is lagging and missing when I ride it and getting up my nose. Perhaps I should have left it alone.Someone here mentioned take carbs off bike and place on a bench and adjust #3 slide height with a gap just big enough for a small drill bit to slide in and then adjust the other three the same. Is the #3 carb able to be adjusted during the sync process as I think that is what I have done and may be the cause of my trouble, with this ones settings being out right from the word go.

[gustovh]

The #3 carb is not adjustable for sync and all others are set to it.
V

[relic-rider]

Apples and oranges. Steve's instructions are for the 80 and on BS carbs, while yours are VM's. On BS the #3 is the master and is not adjustable. Also the vacuum port on BS's is on #2. On the VM's , all of the carbs have adjuster screws for sync and the vacuum port is on #3. Usually you plug the vacuum port when syncing because you are using a aux. tank or have the petcock set on prime so no vacuum is needed at the petcock.

[SqDancerLynn1]

On the VM slide carbs Start by checking to see if the #3 carb is closed when the idle screw is backed out. Adjust if needed. Then do the drill part. 1/16" drill is all you need. Turn the idle screw up until the drill will fit the #3 carb. Then do the other three