Do I have an original Suzuki stator ???

[jetta90]

Just to satisfy my curiosity. This question is for those who have replaced the stator in their charging systems.
A while ago I had picked up a 1984 GS 750E, and slowly but surely am going over the bike to correct any issues.
So, off comes the stator cover on the left side of the motor and unscrew 2 philips head screws (the 3rd was missing) to pull off the stator.
I can't see any markings on the stator, absolutely nothing. It does look similar to one from Electropsort Ind. in that it has 3 yellow wires coming off stator and the plastic covering on the windings is blue in color.
Does the standard Suzuki unit also have 3 yellowwires and blue plastic covering the stator windings?
One of the yellow wires coming from the stator i pulled off
the bike has a small piece of the yellow wiring wrap missing, maybe a 1/4 inch. Looks like some inatentiveness while reinstalling the side cover at one point. The individual strands just under the missing yellow sheath are there but 2 or 3 strands are kinked. Again, probably this happened sometime in the past by someone reinsalling the engine cover and not payaing attention.
Could the kinked starnds and missing yellow sheathing cause charging issues??
I'm told that prvious owners had done some work the the charging system but no one really knows what exactly.
What think you?

[Jackrp]

Just to satisfy my curiosity. This question is for those who have replaced the stator in their charging systems.
A while ago I had picked up a 1984 GS 750E, and slowly but surely am going over the bike to correct any issues.
So, off comes the stator cover on the left side of the motor and unscrew 2 philips head screws (the 3rd was missing) to pull off the stator.
I can't see any markings on the stator, absolutely nothing. It does look similar to one from Electropsort Ind. in that it has 3 yellow wires coming off stator and the plastic covering on the windings is blue in color.
Does the standard Suzuki unit also have 3 yellowwires and blue plastic covering the stator windings?
One of the yellow wires coming from the stator i pulled off
the bike has a small piece of the yellow wiring wrap missing, maybe a 1/4 inch. Looks like some inatentiveness while reinstalling the side cover at one point. The individual strands just under the missing yellow sheath are there but 2 or 3 strands are kinked. Again, probably this happened sometime in the past by someone reinsalling the engine cover and not payaing attention.
Could the kinked starnds and missing yellow sheathing cause charging issues??
I'm told that prvious owners had done some work the the charging system but no one really knows what exactly.
What think you?

Standard Suzuki wiring for stators is 3 different colors white/red blue/white, Red/white,all 3 yellow,I'd say electrex,and the missing screw is a good clue cuz those screws would do a fair amount of damage if it just fell out.and on the missing yellow sheath and kinked wires, could cause charging issues.Hope this helps

[Hap Call]

Just to satisfy my curiosity. This question is for those who have replaced the stator in their charging systems.
A while ago I had picked up a 1984 GS 750E, and slowly but surely am going over the bike to correct any issues.
So, off comes the stator cover on the left side of the motor and unscrew 2 philips head screws (the 3rd was missing) to pull off the stator.
I can't see any markings on the stator, absolutely nothing. It does look similar to one from Electropsort Ind. in that it has 3 yellow wires coming off stator and the plastic covering on the windings is blue in color.
Does the standard Suzuki unit also have 3 yellowwires and blue plastic covering the stator windings?
One of the yellow wires coming from the stator i pulled off
the bike has a small piece of the yellow wiring wrap missing, maybe a 1/4 inch. Looks like some inatentiveness while reinstalling the side cover at one point. The individual strands just under the missing yellow sheath are there but 2 or 3 strands are kinked. Again, probably this happened sometime in the past by someone reinsalling the engine cover and not payaing attention.
Could the kinked starnds and missing yellow sheathing cause charging issues??
I'm told that prvious owners had done some work the the charging system but no one really knows what exactly.
What think you?

You have an Elextrex stator there.

If the wire where the yellow sheath was missing was in contact with the motor cases then you would have a problem. You need to re-insulate the wire with something that can withstand oil and high oil temperatures without breaking down. You might want to do a continuity check to see if the stator is good before trying to fix the bare wire...if the test proves bad it would be best to replace the stator.

Hap

[jetta90]

thank you Hap Call and Jackrp for your reassuring responses.
I think then I must have the Electrex - and that's a good thing.
In regards to the exposed wire repair issue, I was thinking of cutting the wire at the kinked area, solder the connection together and then use 2 or 3 layers of different size (and lengths) of the electrical heat shrink sheathing to cover and seal the connection.
What do you think? It should resist the hot oil environment I think? Is there that much oil in there when the engine operates i wonder? Any other thoughts out there for this repair?
As far as the continuity test on the stator........................I'm sorry but when it comes to electricity I must admit to being next to useless.
I do have a multimeter but can you give me an idea how to set this test up?
Thank you guys - you have no idea how helpful you have been already.

[Hap Call]

In regards to the exposed wire repair issue, I was thinking of cutting the wire at the kinked area, solder the connection together and then use 2 or 3 layers of different size (and lengths) of the electrical heat shrink sheathing to cover and seal the connection.
What do you think? It should resist the hot oil environment I think? Is there that much oil in there when the engine operates i wonder? Any other thoughts out there for this repair?

You need to insure that the material you use is resistant to petroleum products and can withstand temperatures of up to 230 F or possibly more.

I do have a multimeter but can you give me an idea how to set this test up?

1. Take your meter set it to Ohms, in the 0-1000 Ohm range if you have that option.

2. Label one lead on the stator "A", another lead "B" and the last lead "C".

3. Place one test lead from the meter on the bare metal end of the "A" lead and the other test lead on the bare metal end of the "B" lead. It should read around 1 to 3 Ohms.

4. Place one test lead from the meter on the bare metal end of the "A" lead and the other test lead on the bare metal end of the "C" lead. It should read around 1 to 3 Ohms.

5. Place one test lead from the meter on the bare metal end of the "B" lead and the other test lead on the bare metal end of the "C" lead. It should read around 1 to 3 Ohms.



If you get infinity ohms on Steps 1, 2, or 3 then you have a "open" stator winding and the stator is bad.

If you get 0.5 ohms or less Steps 1, 2, or 3 then you may have a internal short in the stator windings and the stator is very suspect. I would change it if that were the case.

I hope this helps.

Hap

[Steve]

Just a quick note here...don't look for labels on the stator wires. :shock:
There are none. It does not matter which wire is what, just grab them and keep them in order.
The first one you touch will, for the duration of this test, be known as "A", the next one will be "B" and the last one will be "C".

In the same manner, it does not matter which stator wire is plugged into what regulator/rectifier wire, either.
Just plug them all in, making sure the connectors are clean and tight.


.

[Hap Call]

Just a quick note here...don't look for labels on the stator wires. :shock:
There are none. It does not matter which wire is what, just grab them and keep them in order.
The first one you touch will, for the duration of this test, be known as "A", the next one will be "B" and the last one will be "C".

In the same manner, it does not matter which stator wire is plugged into what regulator/rectifier wire, either.
Just plug them all in, making sure the connectors are clean and tight.


.

Yeah, I never said there were labels...just said to label the wires. Keeps things from getting confused. Even with only three wires and two test leads, it can be confusing to someone who is not electrically oriented.

[jetta90]

Hap Call...................i performed the ohm checks and confusion reigns.
All the A/B, A/C and B/C tests are not OK I think. I have 2 multimeters (they aren't the best quality - 1 analogue and one digital).
The analogue will run to 0 (goes straight to the right of the scale) on all 3 tests, but sometimes when doing the test on any of the 3 circuits it will vary back and forth between 1 and 3 ohms on the scale. Not really stopping on any number, the needle just moves back and forth between 1 and 2.5 to 3.
If I take any piece of electrical wire from my work bench and perform the same test I get the same result ...................swings straight to the right.
Could the battery in the mutimeter not be strong enough??
I must be doing something wrong, yes?
I am hopeless with electricity.

[Hap Call]

Hap Call...................i performed the ohm checks and confusion reigns.
All the A/B, A/C and B/C tests are not OK I think. I have 2 multimeters (they aren't the best quality - 1 analogue and one digital).
The analogue will run to 0 (goes straight to the right of the scale) on all 3 tests, but sometimes when doing the test on any of the 3 circuits it will vary back and forth between 1 and 3 ohms on the scale. Not really stopping on any number, the needle just moves back and forth between 1 and 2.5 to 3.
If I take any piece of electrical wire from my work bench and perform the same test I get the same result ...................swings straight to the right.
Could the battery in the mutimeter not be strong enough??
I must be doing something wrong, yes?
I am hopeless with electricity.

Your digital meter should be your best bet when doing this. Make sure it has a fresh battery if it is suspect at all. Turn the meter on and place it on "Ohms". Touch the two lead ends together and the meter should say "0" ohms. Pull the leads apart and it should have some symbol that indicates infinity or infinite resistance (the resistance being the air gap between the two leads).

What you are doing when you check continuity is insuring that the wiring in the stator in not broken or separated internally. The wire has some resistance so there will be a reading of resistance but it should be very low - around 1 ohm.

The swinging in your analog meter may just be you moving the leads across the surface of the metal wire. You probably can't tell it, but variance in the pressure you apply to the wire with the leads will cause a change in resistance readings and at this low of a level it would swing the needle easily.

As a precaution, I change the battery in my Fluke every year. I also get it calibrated every year but it is a part of my professional tool kit so I need to insure it is giving accurate readings.

Update me on your progress...


Hap

[jetta90]

thank you Hap Call for walking me through this and I apologize for taking so long to get back to this (why does work always seem to run interference with life??).
Anyway, replaced the battery in the digital multimeter. Placing the multimeter knob on Ohms at any level and putting the two leads together I get a "0" reading and when the leads are apart it displays infinity (with this meter indicated with a "1").
When testing one yellow stator wire to the next (your example of A/B, A/C, C/B) i get the display of "0" on all three tests. Therefore there is continuity in the stator. As far as getting a Ohm reading between 1 and 3 that is not happening. The closest i get to any reading is when i connect the multimeter leads on (as an example) A and B, just as I connect the meter leads to the yellow stator wires I do get some numbers appearing...........but the numbers start at maybe 6.25 and then a rapid decrease to "0". Usually takes a second or so to go from 6.25 (sometimes higher and sometimes lower) to 0.
So, I definately have continuity I would say but as far as getting a resistance reading of 1 to 3 ohms, no joy.

[Hap Call]

thank you Hap Call for walking me through this and I apologize for taking so long to get back to this (why does work always seem to run interference with life??).
Anyway, replaced the battery in the digital multimeter. Placing the multimeter knob on Ohms at any level and putting the two leads together I get a "0" reading and when the leads are apart it displays infinity (with this meter indicated with a "1").
When testing one yellow stator wire to the next (your example of A/B, A/C, C/B) i get the display of "0" on all three tests. Therefore there is continuity in the stator. As far as getting a Ohm reading between 1 and 3 that is not happening. The closest i get to any reading is when i connect the multimeter leads on (as an example) A and B, just as I connect the meter leads to the yellow stator wires I do get some numbers appearing...........but the numbers start at maybe 6.25 and then a rapid decrease to "0". Usually takes a second or so to go from 6.25 (sometimes higher and sometimes lower) to 0.
So, I definately have continuity I would say but as far as getting a resistance reading of 1 to 3 ohms, no joy.

Don't give up yet. There is a very good chance that it is still good. Is the stator on the bike right now with the cover on and the oil full? If so, make sure that you have a fully charged battery on the bike. Set your meter so that it reads AC volts. I would use the analog meter with this test if possible. Start the motor and have someone bring the RPMs up to 5000. With the RPMs held steady at 5000 RPMs, read voltage between stator lead A and lead B, then between lead A and lead C, and finally, between lead B and lead C. You should get a reading of 80V or more. If it is less than 80 volts you have problems with the stator.

Hap

[jetta90]

To answer your question re stator on bike with cover and oil in crankcase, no sir.........not on bike at this time.
When performing the Ohm test we've been talking about i performed them with the stator and stator cover on the bike with no oil and also with cover off and stator still mounted in cover, and also with cover off and stator removed from the cover. Results were the same.
Before I button everything up I need to fix the sheathing on one of the wires from the stator - I mentioned the issue on my first email query. Looks like po must have pinched one of the yellow wires from the stator between the stator cover and engine crankcase last time it was assembled. Approx 1/4" of yellow wire is missing - very close to where the wire comes out of the case, and just before the rubber gromlet is located where all 3 wires pass through. sandwiched between cover and crankcase.
Need to get fixed up first before i'll be ble to button up. Thinking of using that heat shrink made ofr electrical wiring - as long as i can find some that is oil resistant and heat resistant.

[Hap Call]

To answer your question re stator on bike with cover and oil in crankcase, no sir.........not on bike at this time.
When performing the Ohm test we've been talking about i performed them with the stator and stator cover on the bike with no oil and also with cover off and stator still mounted in cover, and also with cover off and stator removed from the cover. Results were the same.
Before I button everything up I need to fix the sheathing on one of the wires from the stator - I mentioned the issue on my first email query. Looks like po must have pinched one of the yellow wires from the stator between the stator cover and engine crankcase last time it was assembled. Approx 1/4" of yellow wire is missing - very close to where the wire comes out of the case, and just before the rubber gromlet is located where all 3 wires pass through. sandwiched between cover and crankcase.
Need to get fixed up first before i'll be ble to button up. Thinking of using that heat shrink made ofr electrical wiring - as long as i can find some that is oil resistant and heat resistant.

Sorry, I forgot about the original reason why you posted your question - old age id getting to my brain. As far as the original question, I would drop by a local motor repair shop and ask to talk with one of their motor repair specialist. Explain to them what you want to repair and ask what would be the best way to insulate the bare magnet wire making sure to tell them about the oil the stator operates in and the expected high temperatures (220 F). They should be able to tell you what to use to repair your stator...if you use puppy-dog-eyes they might just repair it on the spot for free, especially if they are a fellow motorcyclist.

I know several people who work in electric motor repair shops... I'll give them a call on Tuesdays and ask them what would be best. They are constantly coming up with new materials to use in motor insulation repairs.

Hap

[jetta90]

Hap Call - you want to talk about old age - talk to me. It's getting real bad for me. I'm actually gonna hit the big something-0 in a few days................AArrgghhhh!!

Talking with a bit more seriousness I need to send a big thanks to you all and especially Hap Call for sticking with me on this. Your help has been instrumental in me getting this far. I know I'm not quite done yet but I will get there. You guys are super!!
Might take me a short while but i will add new info to this post soon.