Suspension Question

[chronoman]

I really have enjoying my GS450 since I got it in November to me it seems to handle pretty well, but this is my first bike.
The bike has 29K miles, my questions are.
Should I replace the oil in the forks,and seals(they do not appear to leak) and if so how often.
The other question is how do I check the rear shocks? they seem to be originals.
Claude

[koolaid_kid]

You should change the oil in the front forks, it is not difficult to do. I would not change the seals unless they are leaking, it is a lot more work.
I don't know of any easy way to check the rear shocks (perhaps someone else does) but at their age, they must surely be worn out.

[bwringer]

I change fork oil yearly (translates to about 10,000 - 15,000 miles, depending on whether it's a good or bad year...). The fork seals do not need to be replaced unless they're leaking.

You "check" the original shocks by unbolting them and depositing them into the nearest trash receptacle where they belong.

Replace ASAP with Progressive shocks and springs (about $200), or, if budget allows, zooty IKON, Hagon, etc. shocks.

Some here have also expressed satisfaction with low-dollar MDI/Emgo shocks, about $80 a set from CRC2 among others.

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com

Check your swingarm bearings while you're at it, too.

And while you're replacing your fork oil, make sure you remove the original sagged and pitiful fork springs, deposit them next to the shocks, and replace with Progressive fork springs.

You will be utterly amazed at the transformation, and next you'll be wanting to know which tires are the stickiest...

[chef1366]

Ditto to Brian.
If you love your bike now with a new Progressive suspension you'll want to **** it. Especially after some sticky high performance tires.

[koolaid_kid]

I hate to say it, but I agree with bwringer. I replaced my front springs with progressive springs, and it handles better. However, during the BC ride, I noticed that the rear was wallowing in the more challenging curves. Dang it. To me, it proves that the suspension must be approached as a whole, front and rear. Best of luck.

[bwringer]

I hate to say it, but I agree with bwringer. I replaced my front springs with progressive springs, and it handles better. However, during the BC ride, I noticed that the rear was wallowing in the more challenging curves. Dang it. To me, it proves that the suspension must be approached as a whole, front and rear. Best of luck.

Yessssssss... now you feel the power of the dark side. Spend ALL your money on GS parts... you don't need silly stuff like food and shelter, do you? :twisted: BWAHAHAHAHAHA!

This is hilarious because Al was just saying exactly the same thing to me yesterday -- in Brown County, his bike was bottoming out, wallowing a bit and dragging the centerstand more than he liked. We replaced the fork springs last year, but the shocks are still the original chromed screen door dampers.

Good suspension is the gift that just keeps on giving. Plus, it helps keep you alive.

[koolaid_kid]

You will pay for your evil influence, Brian. You will be forced to put my springs on my new shock bodies, as well as help me lube my swingarm bearings. Not attempting to hijack this thread, but rather to show that we must maintain these items in order to have a well functioning machine. Dragging the centerstand is one thing; feeling the rear go left-right-left-right like a boat on a lake is another.

[fgh]

The other question is how do I check the rear shocks? they seem to be originals.
Claude[/QUOTE]

The rear shocks are actually two suspension parts. One is the spring. If the bike seems to bottom out or compress too much for your liking then you need new springs. The second part is the shock absorber. I have really wondered how it got its name cause it doesn't absorb shocks. The job of the shock absorber is to restrict the rebound of the spring. If you ride in, I mean on, a vehicle that has poor shocks it will oscillate a lot after you hit a bump. This greatly decreases your ability to control the bike. Many have heard the old auto shock test, you jump on the bumpers and get the springs compressed as much a possible and if the car bounces more than three times the shocks are bad. Same with a bike, except that it should settle after one bounce. It’s a bit of a judgment call and the more bikes your exposed to the better you can judge. Check it against some of your friends’ bike and make a call.

You'll hear a lot of members "Blowing the Progressive Horn" and rightfully so as they make excellent products. Many feel their springs are so stiff they make for an un-necessarily rough ride, just like most high performance machines with the best handling will have. Its more than non-aggressive riders need. I don't know about your rears but many have an adjustment that allows you to preload the springs. Check yours and see if they are and then experiment to see what suits you best. As far as the front goes if your bike has air forks on it try adding some air and see where you like it. If you can add air do it very carefully. Shoot to much in and you'll be replacing seals. If the front springs feel too soft then you can add washers to the top of the springs to preload them. Start with a small amount, about 1/4". You'll be surprised how much change there is. Be very careful pulling the cap off the fork tubes. The spring will shoot the cap out with a good amount of force.

Having said all this there's a good chance your rear shocks are worn out. You don't mention a year, but 29K is a lot of miles for shocks. By all means change the fluid in the fronts as recommended. When you do pull the springs out and measure them. If they aren't as long as the minimum service length in the manual replace them. Also with the springs out check to see where the caps begin to thread back into the forks. When reinstalling the caps while depressing the springs its much easier to get them started if you know where the threads match up. Also be careful you don't get them crossed when you start them. LOL and lets us know what you find when you've evaluated what you've got now.

[tfb]

The second part is the shock absorber. I have really wondered how it got its name cause it doesn't absorb shocks.

Hmm, I thought that "shock absorber" was the name for the overall unit, being made up of
(i) the spring, because it, err, 'sproings', and
(ii) the damper, because it damps out the oscillation that you would get if you only had the spring.

[chronoman]

Thanks for the info. I replaced fork's oil 50/50 10w-30 and tranz fluid, the old oil was nasty looking it felt like water, I'm willing to bet that it was the original oil from Suzuki, any way I measured the springs they are still good, not progressive but good for now. I adjusted the rear shocks a little I will test tomorrow. Boy I wish I could buy new springs and shocks, but like someone else said, food or shocks.
BTW it is a 1987
Again thank you for this great site.
Claude