I just pulled the filter to re-clean and sealed the rubber gaskets under the covers with weatherstrip adhesive. Maybe this will do it...
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GS850: Cleaned/oiled K&N, replaced foam seal, cleaned airbox - now it bogs??
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ironsheik
GS850: Cleaned/oiled K&N, replaced foam seal, cleaned airbox - now it bogs??
Is there any chance I over-oiled the air filter? The airbox now seems pretty oily up top. I got some 5/16" foam weatherstripping and cut it to fit the top of the filter holder. It seems to seal well to me but is now quite oily too. The only other thing I did was gap my plugs, check compression (145-135 across all 4) and put Seafoam in the tank. The bike is starting and warming up MUCH easier now since the Seafoam BTW. Weird. I didn't have any air leaks before so I'm assuming it's the oil and will clean it again. Has anyone experienced this?
I just pulled the filter to re-clean and sealed the rubber gaskets under the covers with weatherstrip adhesive. Maybe this will do it...Tags: None
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I don't know about the K&N filters specifically, but it is possible and rather easy to get too much oil on them.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
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koolaid_kid
I have run K&Ns since the mid 70s. It is very easy to over oil them. It sounds like you have that issue. If you have access to an air compressor, blow air through it until the oil stops coming out. At the very least, continue to soak up any extra oil that you see.
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ironsheik
Thanks guys. I resealed the airbox good and tight and cleaned up the K&N again and it's running better than ever. (Except now that it pulls so hard, the clutch is slipping a little at high RPMs?? with only 11k on the beast?) I always forget how touchy the carbs and intake can be coming from autos and fuel injection.
Funny, the K&N oil instructions say apply liberally which is what I did. My liberal is just a little too liberal I guess.
Josh
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Change the clutch springs and you should be good to go. With 11K someone would of had to beat the living crap out of that clutch for the clutch fibers to be worn.
Also take out the steel plates and clean them with a brillo pad to get any glaze off of them.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Oct 2003
- 17457
- Indianapolis
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostChange the clutch springs and you should be good to go. With 11K someone would of had to beat the living crap out of that clutch for the clutch fibers to be worn.
Also take out the steel plates and clean them with a brillo pad to get any glaze off of them.
Drop about $20 - $25 for a clutch cover gasket and a set of OEM springs, and you'll end the slipping with less than a half hour of work. The fibers last dang near forever in 850s, but the springs get sagged over a couple dozen years.
I'll confess I've never deglazed the steel plates, but it can't hurt.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!
Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!
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