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1983 Suzuki GS750E/ES running real bad.

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    #16
    Bike running better.

    I got the bike started and rode it a short way (two blocks) to a motorcycle guys house. He rode it and found that it had problems when the bike was shifted and deduced that the clutch interlock switch was bad. He took it apart, sanded the contacts and put it back together. The bike ran better after that. It sure beats having to buy parts that may not have fixed the problem. I think I would have lost the spring or not been able to get the clutch switch back together, had I taken it apart. Thanks for all the suggestions. Any ideas about the front brake switch wiring that goes to nothing??
    Last edited by Guest; 07-03-2007, 05:03 AM. Reason: Added brake switch question.

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      #17
      Don`t worry about the front brake switch wires. If you don`t have a switch fitted at the front brake lever. As some models don`t have them as a standard fitting. It`s nice to have a front brake light switch but not essential.

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        #18
        Front Brake switch

        In NY State it is most definitely required and I suspect for all states

        For God sake and more to the point, your sake, insure all safety equipment works i.e. Brake Lights and their switches. Or risk getting rear ended by someone that barely sees you as it is.

        Unfortunately I have only troubleshot my front brake switch at the switch and found it needed cleaning and thus have not had to look into it further. But if you follow the switch from the rear brake switch they should some how tie together. One side of the switch will be hot from the fuse panel and the other will eventually make it back to the rear brake light.

        Originally posted by pinky44 View Post
        Don`t worry about the front brake switch wires. If you don`t have a switch fitted at the front brake lever. As some models don`t have them as a standard fitting. It`s nice to have a front brake light switch but not essential.
        Last edited by Guest; 07-03-2007, 09:21 AM.

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          #19
          "clutch interlock switch" - Do you mean the "clutch safety switch"? - the one that prevents using the starter button unless the clutch lever is pulled. If so, I wasn't aware that affects anything but the starter button - shouldn't affect the bike while running.
          If your problem resurfaces:
          Your problem certainly sounds like your ignition component(s) are cutting out intermittently. Many times it's the ignitor but it can also be the key ignition switch itself or a whole host of other stuff like:
          1. Frayed wires / poor connections
          2. signal generator (pulser)
          3. coils
          4. plug wires/caps
          Last edited by Guest; 07-03-2007, 09:24 AM.

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            #20
            "clutch interlock switch" - Do you mean the "clutch safety switch"? - the one that prevents using the starter button unless the clutch lever is pulled. If so, I wasn't aware that affects anything but the starter button - shouldn't affect the bike while running.
            If your problem resurfaces:
            Your problem certainly sounds like your ignition component(s) are cutting out intermittently. Many times it's the ignitor but it can also be the key ignition switch itself or a whole host of other stuff like:
            1. Frayed wires / poor connections
            2. signal generator (pulser)
            3. coils
            4. plug wires/caps

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              #21
              1983 Suzuki GS750E/ES

              It was the switch on the left bar that is controlled by the clutch lever. The contact was not good and after sanding it, the bike seemed to run much better. It was not running well and had problems both starting and running, until the clutch switch was cleaned. It affected the bike while running because the clutch lever when pulled in for shifting would not have a good contact with the switch and the bike would shut off - similar to the kill switch (did not do it every time). Even when running the switch was not getting good connectivity and the bike would stutter or stall.

              As far as the front brake switch - it is there but not connected to the motorcycle wiring. I think I will check the schematic and maybe splice it into the same place that the rear brake light goes to. I do want the rear brake light to come on when I use the front brake. It is a safety feature. I just can't understand why the wiring where it should connect to is nonexistent.
              Last edited by Guest; 07-03-2007, 07:42 PM.

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                #22
                I know you might disagree but the clutch safety switch has no effect on the way the bike runs once it is started. It only completes the circuit to the solenoid along with the starter button.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  I know you might disagree but the clutch safety switch has no effect on the way the bike runs once it is started. It only completes the circuit to the solenoid along with the starter button.
                  I concur...fixing the clutch switch wouldn't have directly fixed a running issue, only a starting issue.

                  The only way, I can see, that cleaning the contacts on the clutch switch would fix your running problem is if you have a safety interlock setup that kills the engine if the side stand is down, bike is in gear, and clutch is released....in this scenario your side stand switch would have to indicate that the side stand is down and your clutch switch would have to be hardly working when the problem was going on and after the cleaning it would have to be out of adjustment and always indicating that the clutch is pulled in.
                  Last edited by Guest; 07-03-2007, 09:59 PM.

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                    #24
                    Clutch switch

                    All I know is that after cleaning the clutch interlock switch, the bike not only started, but ran better as well. I will have to take it on a longer ride to see if it messes up again.

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                      #25
                      Still running

                      I took it out for a longer ride today around town and it did pretty good. The bike stalled as I was parking it at a store and then it would not start right away when I was leaving. It did start up and rode good all the way home. The problem may not be totally fixed, but it certainly is much better. It could still be the clutch switch contact or maybe even a failing CDI, but I am not changing anything as long as it keeps running well.
                      Time will tell if it gets any worse.

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                        #26
                        Hope it runs good next time I ride.

                        I will have to take it for another long ride to see if it has any problems.
                        Tonight I adjusted the rear brake switch because it did not come on.
                        The front brake is still not wired in, but at least the rear one comes on when foot brake is used. Anyone else have a 1983 GS750E/ES that can help with wiring info?

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                          #27
                          Front brake switch wiring

                          Still looking for information on where the two wires from the front brake switch go.
                          They are supposed to light up the rear brake light when the front brake lever is squeezed.
                          They cannot do that if they are not connected to anything.
                          Any help from other Suzukis GS750E/ES owners??

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Bikeman982 View Post
                            P.S.
                            When I took off the gas tank I noticed two wires (orange and a white one) for the front brake switch were not connected to anything. I checked the schematic and it showed an orange/green and a white wire for the front brake light switch. I could not find any connection for the two wires - is it supposed to have them?
                            Is there a front brake light on the instrument cluster somewhere??
                            I have two wires under my gas tank that connect to the float assembly on my gas tank for the fuel gauge. Orange and white. You sure you have the right wires? - Also Orange and white wires are on one of my coils. - is the wiring to your coils cennected properly?

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                              #29
                              The front brake wires should connect where all the wires are in the fairing. Here's a link to a wiring diagram for future reference.
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                                #30
                                Im a newbee so I could be wrong , but my bike had been dumped before I bought it and the clutch lever assembly is bend a bit. I have to hold my clutch lever in just the right spot to get it to start kickin. I would remove the little safety switch on the bottom of your clutch lever and clean it. Also open up your start switch and clean in there too. Be careful not to lose the little springs!!!

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