If your pipes are turning blue you're probably running lean & too hot... might want to deal with that before you burn something up!
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GS850G #1 not firing
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t3rmin
It's weird how sometimes a perfectly good looking plug can be fouled. Glad it's running for ya!
If your pipes are turning blue you're probably running lean & too hot... might want to deal with that before you burn something up!
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wolfleg
Originally posted by t3rmin View PostIt's weird how sometimes a perfectly good looking plug can be fouled. Glad it's running for ya!
If your pipes are turning blue you're probably running lean & too hot... might want to deal with that before you burn something up!
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firstimer850
Plugs can be a pain at times. Both of mine looked fine except for oil and gas on them. Depending on how long you ran the bike, you might want to change the oil and filter as you the possibility of gas in the oil. Might get rid of the blue pipes as well.
Happy hunting.
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kurifu
It is possible it is the coil, I woul recommend that you swap the cable and plugs between pot 1 and 4 and see if that changes anything, if pot 1 starts to work and pot 4 doesn't than the problem is either the plug or the cable, otherwise than I would replace the coil.
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t3rmin
Ignition won't have anything to do with blue pipes. Neither will oil change/oil filter.
If your bike is stock as far as air filter/exhaust, then:
1) You have intake leak(s). If all your pipes are equally blue it's most likely in the air filter area but I suppose it could be the intake o-rings if they're ALL bad.
2) Somebody rejetted your carbs too lean.
3) Float levels are off.
Lean means HOT so it's not something to mess around with, especially in these summer months.
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tateG
I am having this same problem today, the really weird part is if I take the boot off the plug a little, not all the way off, the cylinder starts firing again and runs fine. Why in the world would that happen? This happens even if I take the boot/elbow off and run the wire straight the the plug, pull wire away from plug about an 1/8th inch and watch it arc and start firing again, if the wire is too close to the plug it stops. I am about to go snip a bit off the wire and see if that helps.
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t3rmin
Originally posted by tateG View PostI am having this same problem today, the really weird part is if I take the boot off the plug a little, not all the way off, the cylinder starts firing again and runs fine. Why in the world would that happen? This happens even if I take the boot/elbow off and run the wire straight the the plug, pull wire away from plug about an 1/8th inch and watch it arc and start firing again, if the wire is too close to the plug it stops. I am about to go snip a bit off the wire and see if that helps.
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tateG
I took the boot off and it does the same thing, never seen this kind of weirdness before, cars or bikes. I am going to put the old plugs I recently took out back in and see if that changes anything, now that the bike has cooled off a bit. I rode home about 10 miles with the boot loose on the plug, snap it down on the plug and wouldn't run on that cylinder. I did snip a bit off and re-screwed on the old boot, no change. I want new boots anyway, but I don't think that is going to fix it.
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Originally posted by tateG View PostI took the boot off and it does the same thing, never seen this kind of weirdness before, cars or bikes. I am going to put the old plugs I recently took out back in and see if that changes anything, now that the bike has cooled off a bit. I rode home about 10 miles with the boot loose on the plug, snap it down on the plug and wouldn't run on that cylinder. I did snip a bit off and re-screwed on the old boot, no change. I want new boots anyway, but I don't think that is going to fix it.
Throw a new plug in it. When you lengthen the distance on the gap (wire end) you're creating a higher amperage discharge "more juice". Sounds like your plug is all but fouled out.
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tateG
Yep, just got back from a short ride, my old plugs work fine. It was fouling that one plug, but not sure why. I recently changed my plugs, but I didn't think to check the numbers on what I had in the bike before I bought the new ones. So the Suzuki shop gave me the normal plugs, which are one step colder than what I had. I wondered if that would cause a problem. I guess that combined with the new 4-1 pipe created the problem. I am back to running the NGK B7ES now and it ran great. We will see after I take a little bit longer ride to work and back tonight how it fares.
And thanks for the explanation Dave8338, I was wondering about that but don't really know much about electric current and such. Now I know just a little bit more :-D
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tateG
Forgot to ask Dave, what is the car in your signature? Is that an Opel? It looks not-so-stock whatever it may be. :shock:
Don't want to hi-jack the thread too much, just really curious.
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kurifu
Originally posted by Dave8338 View PostThrow a new plug in it. When you lengthen the distance on the gap (wire end) you're creating a higher amperage discharge "more juice". Sounds like your plug is all but fouled out.
V = IR, so I = V/R, as R increases to infinity (creating gap) I approaches 0 amperes.
Sounds to me like you have a bad boot or a bad plug, try changing them. Try using the boot or swap the 1 and 4 cables, they both fire at the same time, this will tell you if it is boot or plug.
Cutting a bit of the HT wire off the end might not be a bad idea, but inside the boot the connectors could be bad as well, so don't overlook these.
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