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    Front brake not illuminating brake light

    Bike: 81 GS450S
    I checked this before I bought the bike, and since then I've adjusted the rear brake (different resting stop point), and now the front brake handle isn't turning on the brake light. I'd like to get an idea where I should start in looking for the problem.

    Thanks,
    Jeff

    #2
    The switch that activates the light is on the underside of the master cyl/brake lever assembly. It's an oblong plastic piece with two screws holding it on and a wire coming out.

    Loosen the clamp bolts that hold the whole assembly to the handlebar, then turn it all upside-down. This is so springs and such don't fall out when you open the switch. Now remove the two screws holding the oblong plastic holder, being careful not to let anything *sproing* across the room.

    Clean all the contacts inside, pack with a little dielectric grease to make it last, and put it back together. Now adjust it (it slides a bit) until the light comes on at the slightest squeeze of the lever and tighten the two screws down. Swing the assembly back right-side-up and tighten the clamp bolts.

    That's it!

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks! I knew my first step would be around at the handle, but advice based on experience is fantastic.

      Jeff

      Comment


        #4
        PO of my bike used a lot of grease under there which actually stopped the contacts from mating, had to clean them out to get it working again, watch out though, a small level will fall out as soon as you remove that bottom plate to the switch, I also found the my level had to be replaced, they are a cheap part worth about $1 though.

        If that doesn't work, you will need to start checking your electrical to make sure wires and connectors are good, you can do this with a volt and ohmmeter.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by kurifu View Post
          PO of my bike used a lot of grease under there which actually stopped the contacts from mating, had to clean them out to get it working again,
          Anything but dielectric grease would be Bad(tm).

          Comment


            #6
            While you're at it, follow the wires for the switch to the headlight bucket. Check the connections in there. I bought a can of dielectric grease and any time I deal with the electrical system, even if it's just to move wiring out of the way for other work, I take apart all connections, clean them, and reassemble with dielectric grease. It's cheap insurance against problems due to bad connections.
            JP
            1982 GS1100EZ (awaiting resurrection)
            1992 Concours
            2001 GS500 (Dad's old bike)
            2007 FJR

            Comment


              #7
              Be very, very careful and watch for the spring, the plastic piece and the brass strip if you disassemble. Make sure you have a clean workspace and a sheet or something to catch them. These little @@@@'s will always necessarily fall into the abyss, never to be found again. Ask me how I know. Twice.LOL. You can just loosen the two screws slightly and move the plate around to see if it out of adjustment before disassembling the whole switch.

              Comment


                #8
                I just got mine to work yesterday after replacing and ohming wires for 2 hours I found the little square piece in the lever was seeding to far back. After modifying a small c-clip to help hold it out I now have front brake lights. I was just about to give up and replace it all.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I had to replace that little piece with spring & contact, it was deformed. I bought the whole switch assembly in the end for 15 bucks... The contacts were pretty worn out anyway....

                  Dan
                  1980 GS1000G - Sold
                  1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                  1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                  1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                  2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                  1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                  2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                  www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                  TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you want to replace the switch, try Partsnmore



                    I bought one and think it is better designed than the original. It's made so the metal contact piece and the spring stay in the piece that slides, making it a lot easier to assemble, IMO.
                    JP
                    1982 GS1100EZ (awaiting resurrection)
                    1992 Concours
                    2001 GS500 (Dad's old bike)
                    2007 FJR

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It was pretty corroded/dirty. I didn't lose any parts. Cleaned it all up and it works. Next time I'm at an auto parts store I'll pick up dielectric grease.

                      Jeff

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Fix your brake light switch forever.

                        How to make sure you never have to touch your brake light switch again. No adjustments ever!

                        Get one of these. I put one on after hearing about it on this forum. It's a miracle! http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...ductId=p210370

                        Last edited by Guest; 06-04-2007, 02:01 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I won't Deny you Dog on this one. I but that link on my fav and will get one in the near future. Thanks.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            I won't Deny you Dog
                            Good one!

                            The only two slightly negative things about this switch I can think of, is that it costs a little more than the standard switch. It might also add just a little bit more travel to the brake lever due to the fact that the fluid has to actuate the hydraulic switch. I don't know that it's even perceptible though.
                            Last edited by Guest; 06-05-2007, 04:25 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by denydog View Post
                              Good one!

                              The only two slightly negative things about this switch I can think of, is that it costs a little more than the standard switch. It might also add just a little bit more travel to the brake lever due to the fact that the fluid has to actuate the hydraulic switch. I don't know that it's even perceptible though.
                              Did it come with two switchs or do you have to purchase two of them...Not sure what the description was trying to tell me, if front and rear come for that price the cost is quite compareable to OEM.

                              Comment

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