Just purchased 1982 GS1100EZ Need some help!

[kctrading]

Just purchased (yesterday) a 1982 GS1100EZ 16V for $1000 which I am going to get back shape as I use to have a 1983 1100ED which I had to sell a long time ago

(pictured below)
Came with these add-ons:
Brand new tires front and rear, (balanced, too).
Nice rack and adjustable back rest
Chrome crash bars
Adjustable Spit Fire windshield
New Battery

19K miles on it and its been setting in a garage most of it's life. Drove it home...with some effort as the motor/carbs have no low end power...above 3500 to redline it's very smooth and power is right on target. It won't idle unless you choke it and then you have to feather the gas to get it going until you get above 3500rpms. Shifts into all the gears nice and stays there under power.

I first did a visual and found that all the rubber intake boot clamps were 2-3 turns loose...from setting in a garage most of it's life I figure and age....no change...still rough.

Next took out the spark plugs...notice that the two inter ones (2&3) were tight! Almost got the right side inter (#3) out but half of the thread case snaped off...top of the plug and metal came out fine, just the porcelain shell broke...it's about 1/3 way out...hole in thread end goes all the way though so I was able to use an easy out and it came right out, was able to turn the motor over and blow out any small pieces of porcelain as well before putting in some new NGK plugs...still runs rough.

Notice that three of the old plugs looked on the fouled side...not wet but dark...last owner said he had someone adjust it? I do have a mercury sync tool....but as yet no factory manual on this yet.

I pulled the tops off the CV carbs...all the diaphrams look like new...no holes and no varnish to speak of...I did flush out the bowls (bottom drain bolts)...still runs the same...a tad smoother with the foam air cleaner, but it still dies....sounds like rebuild time...where do I go from here?

Also the Headlamp and Turn Signals do not work...guy said something fell out of the switch??? Running lamps and brakes lamp, horn ok. All fuses ok.

Battery lamp was on solid but it does have a brand new battery installed yesterday....come to find guy forgot to install the acid level sensor...doh...lite now out!

So far I can't find a factory manual, and owners manual online to download...lot of freebie GSX out there but none for the GS1100EZ so far

Thanks for any help and suggestions! :cheers
Ken
Hemet, CA USA

[pano]

Great looking bike...I have had the same one since 1984. Sounds like you have carb issues.

Here is a link to the carb clean-up instructions

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

I haven't used it yet but people say it is put together very well. You will also want to make sure your carbs are not drawing any air from poor connections to the airbox or the rubber carb mounting boots. You will find a lot of great info here and welcome.

[kctrading]

Is the GS850 going to be the same proceedure as mine?

Is there a factory manual available to download on line...I see them for everything except mine

I may try syn them first....any idea what size thread the carb syn plugs are? Not sure if I can get fittings with nipples down at lowes.

Ken

[Nessism]

Is the GS850 going to be the same proceedure as mine?

Is there a factory manual available to download on line...I see them for everything except mine

I may try syn them first....any idea what size thread the carb syn plugs are? Not sure if I can get fittings with nipples down at lowes.

Ken

Sync is not the problem. Your pilot jets are plugged up. You need to pull the carbs and clean them. The procedure is the same as the 850 carbs. Also, the various O-rings are sure to be hard and brittle. Do yourself a favor and do a complete rebuild or you will be back into the carbs a second time.

[koolaid_kid]

I purchased a genuine Suzuki factory manual off ebay for mine. It has lots, lots of pages and would have costed as much to print a pdf file. And I use it next to my bike (used it today, as a matter of fact) so having it on a pc or laptop is not practical, at least to me. Lots of people like Clymers or Haynes, but I find mine fairly useless for real work.
Here is one, but it is almost gone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUK...em170116571329
I also purchased my owner's manual off ebay. It is a Canadian book, so it has English and French in it. Quite curious.
BTW, nice bike. I really like the luggage rack/backrest.

[kctrading]

Sync is not the problem. Your pilot jets are plugged up. You need to pull the carbs and clean them. The procedure is the same as the 850 carbs. Also, the various O-rings are sure to be hard and brittle. Do yourself a favor and do a complete rebuild or you will be back into the carbs a second time.

I just figured I'd try this before going through the carbs as they were very clean...guy told me that a friend down the street mess with the adjustments and made it worse...he did not have a stik.

I did order a o-ring kit from Tom though.

Ken

[kctrading]

I purchased a genuine Suzuki factory manual off ebay for mine. It has lots, lots of pages and would have costed as much to print a pdf file. And I use it next to my bike (used it today, as a matter of fact) so having it on a pc or laptop is not practical, at least to me. Lots of people like Clymers or Haynes, but I find mine fairly useless for real work.
Here is one, but it is almost gone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUK...em170116571329
I also purchased my owner's manual off ebay. It is a Canadian book, so it has English and French in it. Quite curious.
BTW, nice bike. I really like the luggage rack/backrest.

Thanks...those manuals are pricey! I found the same rack w/back rest and pack for sale on ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8689169&rd=1,1

[Suzuki mad]

Bought a genunie Suzuki manual new from Bells Suzuki for $68 a couple of years ago which cover the EZ. (99500-39012-03E)

Does sound like a carb clean out, likely the pilot jets as its runs well after 3500 which is mains.

The front carb rubbers are a better design than the older GS1000 as they are without the sealing 'O'ring.

Read the carb sections, a valuable sorce of information. Here in the UK several people offer a clean, strip and rebuild service but that can be pricey £200 for a bank of 4 ($400)

Suzuki mad.

[kctrading]

Bought a genunie Suzuki manual new from Bells Suzuki for $68 a couple of years ago which cover the EZ. (99500-39012-03E)

Does sound like a carb clean out, likely the pilot jets as its runs well after 3500 which is mains.

The front carb rubbers are a better design than the older GS1000 as they are without the sealing 'O'ring.

Read the carb sections, a valuable sorce of information. Here in the UK several people offer a clean, strip and rebuild service but that can be pricey £200 for a bank of 4 ($400)

Suzuki mad.

I went ahead and ordered a O-ring kit from Tom...will I need bowl o-rings and seats as well if I go through the carbs? Only 19K miles on them. My last bike I did was a Yamaha Ventura and it ran great after the carb overhaul and sync.

Thanks,
Ken

[kctrading]

How close is a 1981 GS1100EX? I did find a pdf fishie at http://www.repairmanualclub.com which is free to join, before you can download the file below...still looking for a factory shop manual to download...but I may have to purchase one off ebay.

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/index.php?ACT=dl&id=386&symid=465

Also if someone happens to have a 1982 GS1100EZ manual they want to scan and upload that can be done as well!

Ken

[Nessism]

Bowl gaskets and float needle and seats are likely okay. Can't say until you inspect them.

[koolaid_kid]

Yes, the manuals are not cheap. IMHO, you get what you pay for. I am sure others will disagree, which is fine. I have both a Clymers and a factory manual, and try the Clymers first because it is smaller and easier to use. But for really detailed info and diagrams, the factory manual is impossible to beat.

[kctrading]

Bowl gaskets and float needle and seats are likely okay. Can't say until you inspect them.

Update:

Well drilled out the air screw tamper plugs and noted what it took to slightly seat each one...most were 1 to 1.5 turns...one was .2? Or maybe it had some pucky in it Set them all at 1.5 turns out...still running like crap...can really adjust these when you have to leave the choke on for it to run! Checked for air leaks in the air box, etc....I did hook up my Sync mercury guage set and the only way the mercury was going to stay high enough to look at is with the choke on 3/4 of the way...and they were all off! ok, ok the carbs need to come off!

Man compaired to my Yamaha Ventura these came out sooooo easy!!! Took some pics for I know where everything goes.

There was Zero corosion in the bowls and surrounding parts!

Questions:

1. Instead of taking everything apart and boiling them out and then spraying all the holes, etc. can I do these one at a time take everything out? Then just use some good choke spray and compressed air? I'll also use the special wire tool as well Note: I did order a complete O ring kit from John.

2. The thick paper gaskets look good with no tears and they are attached to the bowls...so I think these can just be sprayed..also do the rubber pilot jet plugs need replace? Mine still look good and fit snug! All CV diap. rubbers are in excellent cond.

3. Going to do a search on checking the float levels...I know number 1 will flood...found this out when I left the tank on prime to long.

4. Size of fuel line from tank to carbs? Seems real thin wall.

5. What should the compression look like...I need to get an adapter as these are smaller than my auto/truck guage.

Ken

[chef1366]

Do a compression test and clean those carbs. Someone gave you a link. Just do it. Also replace the petcock while your at it and it will cease many future headaches.

[Nessism]

1. Seperate the carbs from the gang. There are fuel tubes connecting the carbs together and the O-rings on these tubes are frequently cracked and broken.

2. If the rubber plugs are okay, reuse them. Same goes for the bowl gaskets.

3. Check manual for float height. Some people like to set theirs with a level gauge but I typically just measure the float height.

4. Factory fuel line is very thin. It works fine since there is no pressure in the tube. I like this thin tubing since you don't need a clamp to seal properly (although a clamp is generally recommended anyway). Sorry, not sure about the size - my 81 is still using the stock stuff.

Typical compression is in the 150 psi range for a really solid engine. Service limit is 120 for most engines but you should check the manual to be sure.

Good luck!