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Just purchased 1982 GS1100EZ Need some help!

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    #16
    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
    Do a compression test and clean those carbs. Someone gave you a link. Just do it. Also replace the petcock while your at it and it will cease many future headaches.
    Petcoak is working as it should right now...since I don't have a local Suzuki dealer in town is there a good place to check part numbers/fishe so if I have to order I only have to drive down there one time...thanks!

    Ken
    Hemet, CA

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      #17
      Find OEM motorcycle and ATV parts for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, and Polaris.

      This place uses Suzuki part numbers.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #18
        Well I got my o-ring kit from Robert Barr so I will be taking the carbs all the way down....today I found three of the four pilot jets pluged up!

        Should run as good as new tomorrow!

        Ken

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          #19
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          http://www.mrcycles.com/
          This place uses Suzuki part numbers.

          thanks. this is gonna be extremely useful when working on my '82 1100 katana

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            #20
            Originally posted by mcneilk View Post
            thanks. this is gonna be extremely useful when working on my '82 1100 katana

            Yeah I agree that one also gives you the updated part number as some of the others you have to do several more clicks...also it's good to check around on the prices...some will give you free shipping if you spend over a certain amount

            Ken

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              #21
              1982 GS1100EZ California model

              Specs: 22.4mm with slight pressure on float pin.

              Ok...right in the middle of the cleaning and checking the float level...

              Manual does not show a good picture, so, do I adjust at the highest part of the foat #1...where the tang attaches to the float or at the round top of the foat which is spot 2? See attached pic

              To me....Looks like #1 where the screw driver is pointing as that is the highest point...if that is the case then it's to high as it comes in at 24.0mm....I went ahead and set them all at point 1 at 22.4mm with my caliper...waiting to hear from someone if this is correct before I slap the bowls on

              Ken
              Last edited by Guest; 06-08-2007, 04:20 PM.

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                #22
                You should set the float heigth at the stepdown of the float. #2 on your pic.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  You should set the float heigth at the stepdown of the float. #2 on your pic.
                  Cool...thank you! You would think they would put that in the manual!

                  Should have it running tonight!

                  Ken

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                    #24
                    I hurt for you dude

                    I have one of these awesome rides and thankfully my carbs are working "mostly" as they should.
                    I get depressed when I cant ride her.
                    Running like a champ right now....no telling what next spring will bring.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Red Rocket GS1100 View Post
                      I have one of these awesome rides and thankfully my carbs are working "mostly" as they should.
                      I get depressed when I cant ride her.
                      Running like a champ right now....no telling what next spring will bring.

                      Guys at work tell me to use gas stablizer when in storage...but here in sunny So. California I don't think it will be setting to much

                      Ken

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                        #26
                        UPDATE:

                        Did a compression test yesterday but with a stone cold motor...no carbs on it.

                        1 through 4 read 120, 90, 140, 105

                        I know about the sticking rings and I've had plenty of Honda cars that had low compression and would not even run...so I took out the plugs and ran some "Ford" Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, Part Number: (D9AZ-19579-BA) from a can, you can also get it in a spray which I did not have on hand... about 1/2 oz. in each hole and then bearly click the motor over so it would spread all around the rings...let it set over night and did it again this morning...this stuff is awesome! I then reinstalled the carbs and hooked everything up....bike runs like a new bike now! I ran it for a few minutes and blew out what was in the combustion chambers. Runs a lot smoother now with very little choke needed and can actual turn the choke off and it won't die out...got it warm (not hot) and turned off the motor...

                        Compression after cleaner, warm with carbs open.

                        1 through 4 now read 135, 135, 140, 130

                        Going to pick up an oil filter, o-ring and some Suzuki oil as I know most of it drained into the oil....Going to now sycn the carbs and will tackle why the headlamps and turn signals don't work.

                        Ken
                        Last edited by Guest; 06-08-2007, 09:49 PM.

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                          #27
                          Right on! Where at in SoCal are you?
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            Right on! Where at in SoCal are you?
                            Hemet, CA...20 miles east of Riverside

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                              #29
                              NICE FIND!!!! (I am biased, though) Glad the compression jumped up for you.

                              \\/ Ride safe!

                              Mike
                              Mike

                              1982 GS1100EZ

                              Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

                              Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

                              Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

                              Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

                              Dan-O: Roger that! :)

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                                #30
                                Well guys I got to ride it twice today after getting some insurance though Progressive...$158 a year for full coverage ($100K, $300K, $500 deduct with towing!)

                                I notice that my left fork seal is leaking fluid What does a dealer charge do to something like this? I may tackle this myself (never done one before) any good writeup with pics for doing this? I did a search and found a lot of suggestions for getting out the fork bolt. I'm a used car tech by trade.

                                Also I figured out why my headlamp did not work! Seems someone installed a small toggle switch under the headlamp so it could be turned off! I also notice that my blinkers work fine if I pull up on the switch a little before turning it left or right...fix for this?

                                I also notice that there is a buzz in the exhaust if run higher in the rpms...anyone have any suggestions on this?

                                I also changed the oil and filter today after the first ride around the block.

                                Ken
                                Last edited by Guest; 06-10-2007, 02:36 AM.

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