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On the road!
Well, my stator and its accompanying electrics are back together, and we made it onto the road!
It's been three years. I'd been scared of opening the case, and didn't really understand where Suzuki was going with their design. The Stator Papers got me going again.
For the stator in the 250, it took only 5'4" of wire on each pole with the same 35 turns, wound VERY carefully. I used the "Y" connection as the original had done.
I got about a cupful of rewind varnish from Jim's Electric Motor Services, and dip-coated it in a margarine tub. After it dried, I dipped it a second time, allowed it to dry, and then baked it at 300F for four hours. (Toaster oven, outside) I put two brands of hardware-store varnish on sample trays in the oven at the same time, and both stood up to the heat just fine. In fact, the "real" winding varnish turned the darkest and was the most brittle.
I led the three conductors away from the stator about 5", since that part of the wiring harness had been cooked black and brittle. I insulated the leads in silicone "noodle" stripped from high-heat wire from the hardware store.
I re-assembled things and reviewed the wiring. I discovered further wires in the wiring harness that had melted in the original failure, and replaced them. The ground pigtail from the harness to the electrics plate (ignitor, R/R, solenoid, etc) connected directly to a second ground pigtail going to the battery bracket plate, so I didn't run an additional ground line.
I charged the battery, fired it up, and measured the AC from the stator: about 50V across each pair. I added in the Electrex R/R; it was physically larger than stock, but I was able to tweak the mounting to get it in beside the ignitor without pinching any wires. A second start, and got sweet, regulated power from the red output.
Aaaah!
Well, my stator and its accompanying electrics are back together, and we made it onto the road!
It's been three years. I'd been scared of opening the case, and didn't really understand where Suzuki was going with their design. The Stator Papers got me going again.
For the stator in the 250, it took only 5'4" of wire on each pole with the same 35 turns, wound VERY carefully. I used the "Y" connection as the original had done.
I got about a cupful of rewind varnish from Jim's Electric Motor Services, and dip-coated it in a margarine tub. After it dried, I dipped it a second time, allowed it to dry, and then baked it at 300F for four hours. (Toaster oven, outside) I put two brands of hardware-store varnish on sample trays in the oven at the same time, and both stood up to the heat just fine. In fact, the "real" winding varnish turned the darkest and was the most brittle.
I led the three conductors away from the stator about 5", since that part of the wiring harness had been cooked black and brittle. I insulated the leads in silicone "noodle" stripped from high-heat wire from the hardware store.
I re-assembled things and reviewed the wiring. I discovered further wires in the wiring harness that had melted in the original failure, and replaced them. The ground pigtail from the harness to the electrics plate (ignitor, R/R, solenoid, etc) connected directly to a second ground pigtail going to the battery bracket plate, so I didn't run an additional ground line.
I charged the battery, fired it up, and measured the AC from the stator: about 50V across each pair. I added in the Electrex R/R; it was physically larger than stock, but I was able to tweak the mounting to get it in beside the ignitor without pinching any wires. A second start, and got sweet, regulated power from the red output.
Aaaah!
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