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Horn mystery solved

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    Horn mystery solved

    Started an earlier thread about trying to get my horn to work. Took the turn/headlight/horn control apart. Was that some fun to put back together. Had a left over spring so today I took it apart one more time and figured out were the spring went.
    Started tracing wires and getting ready to run new ones. Found a splice the PO had made to the ground wire. Under 3 layers of tape. Cut it out and put in a new connector. Horn works!

    #2
    Friggen POs. :?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Like, any time you see those blue cut-in connectors, you know you're in it

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        #4
        I just cut off about 8 of them. A few were used with the stator and R/R. Used solder and shrink wrap. What a suprise everything works fine now :shock:
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          If you want to take the connections apart again, I recommend tinning the ends and using the grub-screw terminal strips the R/S sells. If you don't need the full strip, it's easy to cut to needed length.




          I use this connector in the motor connections in my electric scooter.

          MarkF
          Mark Fisher
          sigpic
          ..............................27 years

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