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    carb adjust help

    well, i got her running finally!!! its an 80 750E. i had to replace the ignitor box, and now she sparks on all 4. i rebuilt the carbs with chemdip, and using the guide and new o rings that i got from that guy on here... sorry i forgot his name.

    i can get it to idle, but only with about 80% choke... and it seems to idle high. if i pull the choke all the way out it idles even higher. she idles rough, like up and down all the time. but it will stay running long enough to get it warm. the intake boots are all secure, no leaks. there is no air box on it right now... the stock one is a huge pain in the ass and after messing with it forever i decided it would be way easier to just spend the money and buy pods for it....

    turning the idle adjust knob does nothing..... only when its screwed all the way down it will kill the bike. i have the fuel flow screws out about 3 1/2 turns, (with the open exhaust and no filters i know its running way lean!)

    i plan on getting the pods soon so i can troubleshoot some more...

    any touching of the throttle and it will bog it down, if i just tap it it bogs but comes right back up..... i can get it to rev up but its way unstable and sporatic (i know i misspelled that)

    any ideas?

    i will have to change the jets but for now i want to just get it running ok, it has been years since it has run. it has fresh oil and a filter in it.

    thanks for any input guys.

    #2
    You have to have an airbox or pods on there for proper restriction for the CV carbs to operate.

    However, if you just want a quick check (and this is NOT good enough for jetting checks), fold a shop rag in half, drape it over the intakes. Use wire ties to hold it to carbs #1 & 4. It should be rather taut over #2 & 3. It will now run good enough to take it around the block.


    .
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    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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      #3
      i was actually thinking about this just to check it out..... i figured the towel would add enough resistance to just check it out and do a little tuning until the carbs get a good filter on them...

      i noticed that without a filter on the cv's that they dont want to operate right... they require a little resistance to run properly...

      Comment


        #4
        As Steve said, there's no point testing until you get the pods on.
        Then you'll be taking the carbs apart again to install the jet kit needles, mains, pilot jets, air jets, possible drilling of the ports leading to the diaphragm chambers(to improve any poor throttle response issues), etc. If no kit, you'll still need to try shimming up the stock needles with spacers and all the other things just mentioned. A typical jetting spacer is approx' .022 thick and is used for "1/2" needle position changes. For pods, you'll need a good 2 FULL positions richer, or approx' .09" lift. Test at 1/3 throttle to see how the needles are mixing and do what the plugs/performance say.
        Be sure the carbs were bench synched well. Valve clearances and timing must be spot on. All this will prepare you for the vacuum tyool synch. Then test.
        And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
        Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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          #5
          sweet, thanks for the info!

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            #6
            well i got the pods on, and she idles good now, but i need the jet kit cause anything over 10mph and she is really boggy... doesnt want to accellerate.. i have to really lay on the throttle for it to go.. maintaining 50mph is difficult at best

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