Carb cleaning question, factory set screws question

[hikermikem]

I'm getting ready to dip clean the carbs from my '85 GS550L. I've removed & labled everything I can see that comes apart, but I'm curious about how many factory set adjustment screws I should have .

These "two" carbs are the funky 2-barrel CV type Mikuni's. The posted cleaning article in the carb spec "sticky" is for VM carbs. It makes mention of a similar article for CV carbs, but I've searched & searched and haven't found it.

Anyway, I only have one (per carb) long pointy, adjustment screw, with a spring, sm. washer & o-ring attached. i believe this is the air mixture adjustment screw. Each one was approx. 2.5 turns out when i checked before removing them.

I've read about a fuel mixture screw as well, with similar design. Do these carbs have that screw as well?? If so, where is it, and is it buried under a factory seal of some sort? The air mixtures screws were not sealed & easily seen.

I'm a bit out of my comfort zone already with all the carb parts i have to keep track of!!

Any guidance would be appreciated - THANKS

[Steve]

For some reason, the BS(CV) carb series is not in the Garage, it's right next to it. :shock:

Here is a link to that series.

Can't help you much with your particular carbs, but when you get ready to dip them, remember a couple of things:
1) Don't dip anything that is not metal. No o-rings or gaskets. Remove ALL screws (after determining how many turns out they were) to see if there are hidden parts behind them.
2) Dip longer than the can says. It says "15-30 minutes". I do 15-30 hours. Since I prefer to keep each carb's parts together and not mix them from carb to carb, that means one carb per day. May take a little longer to do the carbs, but not nearly as long as having to do the job over because they weren't clean enough.


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[CA180]

DO NOT forget to remove the choke slides! I lost a gasket to the chem dip because i forgot to take it out!

[hikermikem]

Thanks guys - BTW, i did remove the choke slide assy. As it turned out, i had to replace the choke guides (part that threads into the carb body) because the plastic threads were essentially stripped. I imagine there was quite a vac leak there!

Steve, I reviewed the CV article you linked to and didn't see any more components than what I've already removed - although my CV carbs are a little different (2, 2-barrels vs: 4, 1-barrels). Thanks for finding that one.

Hopefully I'm ready to dip!! I'll keep you posted as to how it turns out.

I'm expecting this bike to run A WHOLE LOT BETTER, because I'm fixing so many issues:

- Intake Tube o-ring replacement (old ones were shot)
- Adjusted valve clearances (had no gap to speak of)
- Bad choke guides & seals (stripped threads)
- New petcock assy (old one wasn't working)
- Diaphram in one carb was "kinked" under cap (diaphram looks OK)
- Competely clean & replace o-rings in carbs
- New fuel/vaccum lines

In addition, I have just bought a "new" project bike, 1985 GS550ES (for $50 !!), mainly as a parts bike for this one ("85 GS550L), but it supposedly runs. Maybe I'll get that one going again too!!

[Steve]

Sounds like you have it under control. \\/

Keep us posted on how it turns out.


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[justmount1]

i wish i knew what i was doing like all of you guys do. i am envious lol. instead mine goes to the shop because i doont have the time or knowledge to get it done.

[hikermikem]

I only know what I'm doing now because of all the great info & brainpower from this forum. A few weeks ago i was clueless, didn't even own a bike.

Lots of good people here to provide "lessons learned" & practicl advice.

Speaking of advice - if you need o-rings for your carbs (and you will), I just got a set from www.cycleorings.com. very good experience, inexpensive,& quick shipping - great site.

[CA180]

Man, i'm lucky my shop here has all kinds of o-rings! I havent paid for one yet! The only ones so far that i havent been able to match are the intake boot orings...

[hikermikem]

You might want to get those intake ones from a dealer - I believe the material is viton, a hi-temp elastomer. Best to put the right ones there, a real pain in the butt to change!