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    Slow turn signals (new twist?)

    Hi Everyone,
    Let me start by saying "Yes" I have used the search function on this!

    I have a 1980 GS1100ET that at low rpm's the turn signals are non-existent. So I did a search and read all I could find on this.

    First thing I did was find NEW LED bulbs with matching watt's for all my lights. First result = NOTHING worked! So I thought, well maybe the LED's need an electronic flasher, so off to Auto-Zone for a $14.99 electronic flasher. NOTHING again! And by nothing I mean the lights would not even come on.
    So, next I checked all my grounds. WOW... there were NO grounds in the back. I saw where there "used" to be one, but it had been bypassed for some reason. According to my clymer guide, there should have been a ground from the left turn signal, and a ground connection from where the right turn and brake light combine. So...called my son who is an electrician (just to verify I was doing this right) and we spliced ground wires to the rear lights. Again...Nothing!
    OK.. a little head scratching, and we decided to try the original flasher. Nothing! Then, original flasher w/original bulbs. OK, left side worked better and right side just stayed lit. Found loose wire on right rear turn signal. Fixed that. Now, back to original problem, they work, but only with rpm at over 2000.
    Tried a diff electronic flasher relay, one with variable current capabilities. NOTHING! ??????

    Why will electronic flashers not work at all!?? All the threads I have found in the forums suggest going to electronic relay, but they will not work at all on my bike! We checked all the connections, all the grounds, cleaned and tightened them, checked for frayed wires etc etc etc, and found nothing that we could say was causing a problem.
    We did check the signal control by the book and it was good. Now my current from the battery seemed a little weak, 11.8v, but I'm having no problems elsewhere...ie battery charges ok, never runs down, headlight nice and bright, don't notice any "dips" in brightness, etc.

    Turn signals that don't work at low rpm's are almost the same as not having any! They stay lit, but don't flash below 2000 rpm.

    [-o<Your help will be greatly appreaciated!

    Thanks in advance,
    Steve

    #2
    It appears that your electronic flasher is rather sensitive to input voltage. Connect jumper cables to your car battery WHILE THE CAR ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. See if that makes a difference. The car battery is more likely to be fully-charged, and will have a better reserve capacity to power the flashers.


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    Comment


      #3
      I'm pretty sure this is just a symptom of charging problems. That's why the flashers work over 2k rpm as the charging ramps up. Check the stator papers in the Garage section on the front page of the GSR...

      Josh

      Comment


        #4
        Best guess is low voltage/amperage supply to the turn signal circuit. It could be aging/corroded wires, pitted connectors, dirty turn signal switch contacts, faulty turn signal ground wires.

        Earl
        All the robots copy robots.

        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

        Comment


          #5
          re:Slow turn signals (new twist?)

          Originally posted by ironsheik View Post
          I'm pretty sure this is just a symptom of charging problems. That's why the flashers work over 2k rpm as the charging ramps up. Check the stator papers in the Garage section on the front page of the GSR...

          Josh
          Just checked my charging system per "The Stator Papers II FAQ, testing the complete circuit".

          Everything checks out to specs. Battery is at 12.7 v while everything is off. Started the motor and idled, voltage went to 13.4. Revved up to 4000rpm and got a reading around 14.2-14.4. At higher revs there is basically no significant change.

          This would seem to me to verify that the charging system is fine.
          I guess my next move is to check all wires, grounds and contacts for age/corrosion. This may take me a few days as I do a lot of umpiring for Little League and Babe Ruth at this time of year but I will keep you guys informed.

          Thanks for the info and if anyone thinks of anything else please let me know!

          Steve

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by earlfor View Post
            Best guess is low voltage/amperage supply to the turn signal circuit. It could be aging/corroded wires, pitted connectors, dirty turn signal switch contacts, faulty turn signal ground wires.

            Earl
            Question. Could the wrong gage fuse cause this? It looks like all my fuses are 10 amp. This can't be right can it? If I have a lower amp fuse in the fusebox...could that be causing all these problems??[-o<

            Comment


              #7
              The main fuse is usually 15 amp. Everything else is 10 amp. No, 10 amp fuses will not cause your problem.

              E.

              Originally posted by heyblue46 View Post
              Question. Could the wrong gage fuse cause this? It looks like all my fuses are 10 amp. This can't be right can it? If I have a lower amp fuse in the fusebox...could that be causing all these problems??[-o<
              All the robots copy robots.

              Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

              You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

              Comment


                #8
                I think it's steamrolling. On my way home from work today, I hit the brakes to stop at a stoplight, and my brake light warning on the gauge panel came on! When I got home, I started looking at that, and it looks like my brake light is working backwards! The brighter element (23w)is on all the time, and the less bright one (8w) comes on when I hit the brakes!

                Whats up with that!!

                Steve

                Comment


                  #9
                  You have the wire connections at the tail light reversed.

                  E.

                  Originally posted by heyblue46 View Post
                  I think it's steamrolling. On my way home from work today, I hit the brakes to stop at a stoplight, and my brake light warning on the gauge panel came on! When I got home, I started looking at that, and it looks like my brake light is working backwards! The brighter element (23w)is on all the time, and the less bright one (8w) comes on when I hit the brakes!

                  Whats up with that!!

                  Steve
                  All the robots copy robots.

                  Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                  You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    thats a quick fix take the tail light bracket off and flip the wires. who knows this might even make a difference in your turn signals too. but make sure to check all the wires thourolly when you take that bracket off make sure nothing is pinched or you will start blowing fuses.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by heyblue46 View Post
                      Why will electronic flashers not work at all!??
                      Because the electronic flashers require a ground. You will have to run a ground wire to it. The thermal flasher thats in there now works off of load.

                      The polarity of a electronic flasher also matters because there is a diode that prevents reversing the current and destroying the timer. (the little black 8 pin ic chip thats in there)

                      Electronic flashers are nothing more than a timer. They do "sense" load when they are grounded and have the ability to flash faster when this happens. This is why they tend to flash faster when running LED's. (if you search my posts you'll find the mod for that too)

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