Coils and Plug Wires

[Anonymous]

Hi Folks:
I'm sure this question has been asked before as well as the question has been answered before, but here goes again.
I have an '80 GS850G (78K) and the spark plug wires are starting to crack and look bad. However, the bike runs fine at all RPM's, so there doesn't appear to be any ignition break down. Squaredancer Lynn, from this site, told me what she did to replace the plug wires (and that may be what I'll end up doing....Thanks, Lynn, for the detailed info you sent), but now I have questions about replacing the coils and plug wires with newer stuff.
Since the plug wires appear to be molded into the coils, I'm considering replacing coils and plug wires.
Question #1: Has any body had any problems with after market coils (Accel, Dyna, etc.)? Do they fit back onto/into the original stock mountings?
Question#2: Do the plug wires plug into the coils (like a car or boat)?
I haven't pulled the tank off the bike yet to really inspect what I need to do. I figured replacing the plug wires would be a push/ pull job, until Lynn pointed out the wires were molded into the coils. (Prevents loose connections through vibration?)
Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Riding season is fast approaching, even here in No. California.
Thanks again,
Bob Young
GS850G/GS1100G

[Anonymous]

on my 1100, the dynas fit it the space quite well but only one of the mounting holes on the coils was usable because when one side of the coil was bolted to the frame, the other mounting hole on the coil did not line up. A bracket would be necessary to mount both sides. I believe that some folks said that they either didnt have the trouble or that the axel brand was a bolt in job.

[Anonymous]

New aftermarket wires should just plug into the ends if they are exact replacements. Consider switching to wires that have rubber boots on the end that goes over the spark plugs.

[Anonymous]

new coils

Hey there Robert,

I put a set of new Accel coils on my '77 GS750, and they bolted right up w/o any fit problems. Not perfectly, but well enough, with a minimum amount of hassle and no interference w/ the tank. They work just fine, and I'm sure those spiffy yellow "hi-po" plug wires add a couple MPH to the top end. (j/k)

The coils have 2 "C" shaped clamps that secure a rectangular mounting bracket to the coil, and on my GS the bracket lined up with the mounting tabs for the original coils on the frame. No hassle. All that's left is to measure your wire lengths and assemble the plug wires. You'll need a hammer, wire strippers, and a vise. They included a two-piece crimping tool for the metal connectors. Cut them down, strip to the shielded core, and crimp your ends on. I also found a can of silicone spray lube to be helpful for getting the 90 degree boot onto the wire. Hope that helps, and good luck,

Ryan
--------------------
mueller@xta.com

[SqDancerLynn1]

The patched up coils are still working great I have a brand new set of Dyna Coils in my spare parts bin. What ever brand of coils you use MAKE sure that you get the correct coils (3 ohm for elect ign.). Someone once sugested to use a set of plug wires for a Honda Civic if you don't want to custom make them. But a nice set of accel wires looks sharp.

[arveejay]

The patched up coils are still working great I have a brand new set of Dyna Coils in my spare parts bin. What ever brand of coils you use MAKE sure that you get the correct coils (3 ohm for elect ign.). Someone once sugested to use a set of plug wires for a Honda Civic if you don't want to custom make them. But a nice set of accel wires looks sharp.

My 1980 GS850 had a pair of accell coils which were brand new in appearance, wires and all. They plug right in and bolt holes are exact and bolt right on. After approximateley 30 seconds 3+4 would quit firing and then 15 seconds later 1+4 would die out. By quickly turning key off the back on the bike would run on all 4 again and the dieing would start out all over again. I don't know much about them but as Lynn mentioned they might be for the point type ignition and were bought in error by previous owner. It had been sitting in a bike shop with problems for years. I have no use for them and the first person to pay the shipping can have them for free.

[Anonymous]

The patched up coils are still working great I have a brand new set of Dyna Coils in my spare parts bin. What ever brand of coils you use MAKE sure that you get the correct coils (3 ohm for elect ign.). Someone once sugested to use a set of plug wires for a Honda Civic if you don't want to custom make them. But a nice set of accel wires looks sharp.

My 1980 GS850 had a pair of accell coils which were brand new in appearance, wires and all. They plug right in and bolt holes are exact and bolt right on. After approximateley 30 seconds 3+4 would quit firing and then 15 seconds later 1+4 would die out. By quickly turning key off the back on the bike would run on all 4 again and the dieing would start out all over again. I don't know much about them but as Lynn mentioned they might be for the point type ignition and were bought in error by previous owner. It had been sitting in a bike shop with problems for years. I have no use for them and the first person to pay the shipping can have them for free.

those coils are not defective if the problem jumped from one place to another. Just put an ohm meter across the primary side ro see if theyare 3 ohm coils. I asume you have electronic ignitin.
If you find the info, I ill sell them for you on ebay and you can ship them from your residence.

[arveejay]

The patched up coils are still working great I have a brand new set of Dyna Coils in my spare parts bin. What ever brand of coils you use MAKE sure that you get the correct coils (3 ohm for elect ign.). Someone once sugested to use a set of plug wires for a Honda Civic if you don't want to custom make them. But a nice set of accel wires looks sharp.

My 1980 GS850 had a pair of accell coils which were brand new in appearance, wires and all. They plug right in and bolt holes are exact and bolt right on. After approximateley 30 seconds 3+4 would quit firing and then 15 seconds later 1+4 would die out. By quickly turning key off the back on the bike would run on all 4 again and the dieing would start out all over again. I don't know much about them but as Lynn mentioned they might be for the point type ignition and were bought in error by previous owner. It had been sitting in a bike shop with problems for years. I have no use for them and the first person to pay the shipping can have them for free.

those coils are not defective if the problem jumped from one place to another. Just put an ohm meter across the primary side ro see if theyare 3 ohm coils. I asume you have electronic ignitin.
If you find the info, I ill sell them for you on ebay and you can ship them from your residence.

Ok Slopoke, I'm a little thick on this one. Do you mean that if I set my tester on the ohm setting and check the 2 wire connection I can tell what the ohm rating is. My bike has an electronic ignition and I'm pretty sure they are not proper for this bike, but may however work on a diferant bike. Should they read 3 ohms for the electronic ignition. I will go to garage, get them and check them out.

[arveejay]

OK, I hooked my ohm meter to the 2 wire plug on the coils and both coils read 00.7 ohms. Seems they are nowhere near 3 ohms.

[Anonymous]

I've got to go to work right now. But if anyone is interested in how coils work I would attempt to explain later. Otherwise I won't go into it. It may be that you already know anyway - just offering.

[arveejay]

These coils have an identifying number of (140404), They also say accel super coils. Also marked M-17784. They are complete with wires marked as (accel 8.8 silicone plus graphite RFI Suppression). That is all I know about them. Gotta go to work now. If anyone knows exactly what they are supposed to fit, please let me know.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Not sure of the ohm reading, but #140404 are for a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) So it is the wrong application.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Early/Mid 80's Suzuik electronic ign Consistes of two parts Igniter unit and signal generator This is a transistorized breakerless ignition system, Not a true CDI type ignition as it is often refered to.

[Anonymous]

there should be no wires connected to the primary teminals when you do the test to get an accurate reading. if you still get the .7 then my guess is that Lynn is correct for the application. Some hot shot figured that if the primary winding was a lower resistance, the multiplication factor would be much greater. ((fundamentally correct)) BUT BUT the system is mis matched unless you have 3 ohm primary sides on both coils.

[arveejay]

Not sure of the ohm reading, but #140404 are for a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) So it is the wrong application.

I found a sight this morning that listed the 140404 for the CDI type and the 140403 for the non CDI type, but I am one of those who thought it had a CDI unit in it and I was really confused by it all. So these coils would be for the newer 82-? bikes with the CDI type of ignition, right? I did for curiousities sake pull all of the wires and now it ohms at 00.8 ohms. As said before, somebody really thought they were doing right but were actually creating an unsolveable situation till the coils were changed again. Well I learned a lesson today. Thanks again for the help.