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stuck on stupid
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j.w.napier
stuck on stupid
how goes it. i'm j.w. and here is my problem. i bought a 79 gs 750 l in march on this year this is the first suzuki that i have owned. so far no big problems working on it. i recently found out the carbs had been jacked up so bad that i had to replace them. (thank god for my mom even at 32 yrs old i still get good day presents \\/), so i bought a set off ebay 78 gs 750 ? don't know the exact model didn't give that info? anyways where my fuel lines hook up on the carb are different than my orginal ones. the original had a connecting tube - a tee tube - and another connecting tube. how ever on this one i have a tee tube- no tube - and another tee tube (<original> carb, -, carb, T, carb, -, carb) (<new one> carb, T, carb, nothing, carb, T, carb) no that i've made a fool of myself trying to explain this can anyone tell me wher all of the hoses go? i know the 2 tee tube are my main fuel i think but the other 2 are? return air vented? why are there two main fuel inlets? if you can make sense of any of this and can help i would be very greatful. thanks j.w.Tags: None
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mark
Assuming you have the correct VM carbs for your model:
-You have a plastic T-tube inbetween #2 and #3 carb. That's where your gas line from the petcock hooks up to. Straight tubes should hook up between #1 and #2 and then between #3 and #4.
-Then you have vent nipples on carbs #2, #3, and #4 of the left hand side of the carbs toward the back, facing up. #2 and #4 vent to air (hook up to nothing). #3 hooks up to the petcock and is your vacuum line.
In stock form there shouldn't be two "T" fuel inlets. No clue what that might be about.Last edited by Guest; 06-16-2007, 01:26 AM.
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relic-rider
Only explanation I can think of is that you have a custom carb setup. Normally each carb is different on how it is setup for fuel inlet and vacuum and venting. The only possible way to get around this would be to mount the carbs this way on the rack, #1- #4, #1- #4. #2 & #3 couldn't be used since the fuel inlets go straight thru. With this 1-4, 1-4 setup you would have to use a non vacuum petcock as the vacuum tap is on #3(or tap off of one carb sync port). This would allow you to use a T in between # 1 and #4 on each side, and run 2 seperate gas lines to the carbs. It is possible this was done for racing purposes, to allow more gas flow to the carbs. A picture of each carb rack would help identify what you have going there.
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j.w.napier
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relic-rider
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j.w.napier
thanks for the info all
thanks for the help, boy do i need it:-D. hopfully if i'm lucky i'll be going for a nice ride for my b-day \\/ man that would be sweet. gonna try a few suggestion that i've from ya'll and my pop and see where that gets me. on the road maybe?[-o< have a happy fathers day 2007 god bless, J.W.Last edited by Guest; 06-17-2007, 01:28 PM.
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j.w.napier
always something?
i figured it all out thanks to your help, got the bike to run kinda. i had to hook up a alternative source to get fuel to the carbs just found out my petcock diaphram is junk. i ordered it 2 days ago so it should show up in time for a ride on the fourth\\/ if i keep it up the whole bike is gonna be brand new:-D i;ll keep ya posted god bless j.w.napier
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I know the "if I keep this up my bike will be brand new" If you're like me when you run out of things to do you will get bored and create things to do.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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