WTF? Been riding for 2 years w/o regulator?

[Suzukfan78]

Hi everyone, well Im getting closer to getting my modded bike done and will have plenty of pics soon. I was re-wiring some stuff and I noticed that there is no voltage regulator unit on my 78 gs1000ec and I know there should be. I have been riding the bike off and on for two years now with no electrical problems. My batt seems fine. I have a o.e.m. rectifier in there...no problems; Is this possible without a regulator? I dont know if I should hook up a used one from somwhere or leave it alone? Any suggestions?

[beerbellykelly]

as you probably know-the alternator generates the 3 phase AC to charge your battery,this will be anywhere between 15-50 volts AC-the RECTIFIER is essentially a bridge diode,this converts the AC wave to DC.this is then REGULATED down to approx. 14.4 v DC-which is enough to charge your battery.without a REGULATOR you would have 15-50 volts direct to your battery which would blow any electronic ign etc,and drasticly shorten the life of your battery.

possibly the unit you see as the rectifier may be a combined aftermarket regu/rec unit?

[Suzukfan78]

???

Thanks for the great info :-D; However the rectifier on my bike looks identical to the oem version on the bikebandit parts breakdown. Ill try starting it up and doing a dc volt test on the terminals I guess...Hope I dont blow anything...:-|

[Killer2600]

There has to be a regulator there somewhere otherwise you'd have blown many bulbs, batteries, electronics, and maybe a coil or two.

[SPARKSS]

Hi everyone, well Im getting closer to getting my modded bike done and will have plenty of pics soon. I was re-wiring some stuff and I noticed that there is no voltage regulator unit on my 78 gs1000ec and I know there should be. I have been riding the bike off and on for two years now with no electrical problems. My batt seems fine. I have a o.e.m. rectifier in there...no problems; Is this possible without a regulator? I dont know if I should hook up a used one from somwhere or leave it alone? Any suggestions?

Howdy.....This is entirely possible and is something I've done on purpose for a couple of years in the past.....this is not a normal situation however. First of all, it's amost impossible to pull a lead-acid battery in good condition above approx 17 or 18 vdc......at this sort of charging voltage however, the current would be very high....and the liklihood is that your stator wouldn't stand it for very long (likely not as long as your rectifier bridge could!). You might very well have one bad phase or a grounded point in the stator (not normal) which will put the rectified voltage low enough that it might barely charge or may only charge with the lights off (typical enough failure mode). Under these conditions, disconnecting the seperate regulator that your 78 would have, would have no effect. Suggest you check the AC voltage line-line of your stator (rectifier disconnected) and check for any line-ground voltage at the same time. Line-line might be typically 30 vrms @ 2000 rpm (this will vary with variously wound stators) with no line-ground voltage AND nearly equal for all line-line combinations. If this checks out, check your rectifier bridge (all 6 diodes) and check for shorts between.

Let us know what you've found

[earlfor]

On early model GS's with separate rectifier and regulator. the regulator was usually mounted upside down on the underside of the battery tray.

E.

[Suzukfan78]

Got her running!...

Today was a milestone...after completley taking the carbs apart, cleaning them, dyno jet kit installed, dynaS ignition installed and static timed...She fired right up on the first try and idled suprisingly well for no carb sync or messing with the idle fuel screws. Its funny to think this engine was pulled and sitting on my garage floor 3 weeks ago...and the bike was nothing but a frame. I have many mods to go but will likley be done this week. If you remember I sold my busa,and used about 3K of that on new GS mods; Ill have plenty of pics showing what I changed. Dont worry Im not expecting the old girl to be anything like the busa was performance wise. I know the limitations of this 30 year old bike; however I am so excited...and a little stressed for not being able to ride for the past 4 weeks. Its been fun working on it but now I am very anxious. Here we go... 78 GS1000EC - 80 pounds + Pods/rejet/ 4/1 pipe + 3.1 sprocket ratio = wheelies/more accel/and most important ...FUN...HOPFULLY [-o< Anyways back to the missing regulator, When she was idleling I got 12.9/13 volts at the batt. when I shut it of I got 12.6. I hope thats a clue. I hardley ever ride at night so mabye what you descibed is happening. I have to wait on the tests because she is wheel less at this time (need new wheel bearings) As soon as I can start it again Ill run some of those tests. Stay tuned for one bad a$$ GS coming soon. :-D

[renobruce]

Here's what the stock set-up looks like on a 78 1000 (except for the flasher).

[aosmith]

On early model GS's with separate rectifier and regulator. the regulator was usually mounted upside down on the underside of the battery tray.

E.

The regulator on my '83 550 is mounted behind and level with the top of the battery

[normGS750]

Did my search on the subject

posted and got left out.

[renobruce]

This bike has a two separate OEM unit's for the Voltage regulator and Rectifier.
A 2 wire Voltage regulator that is attached to the bottom of the battery box and a Rectifier attached on the left side of the battery box.
On the regulator it has one yellow wire that connects to the twined connector yellow stator wire and one black/white wire to ground on the voltage regulator housing.

Does anyone have ideas on how to test the 2 wire voltage regulator while it is out of the bike. ???

Yes I have read the Stator Papers a couple of times, even made up a note book.

voltage regulator is just like this one for sale (see picture)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-SUZUKI-GS750-CDI_W0QQitemZ110141232811QQcmdZViewItem

1977 GS750 OEM 2 wire voltage regulator, Suzuki part # 32500-45011,
Nippon Denso part # 137600-0012

Just finished cutting out all the bullet connectors and replaced them with insulated blade connectors. The process I used was the strip the wire, twist and tin then crimp followed with heat shrink as a strain relief . Then use dielectric silicon grease to plug them back together.
I am in process of tying/splicing into both the voltage and rectifier grounds back to reference the Neg. battery post. At the suggestion of another member.

Thanks, norm

I don't beleive there is a way to test with the regulator removed. My manual show the same process as the stator papers.