Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Question about removing the forks on an E model
Collapse
X
-
Road_Clam
Question about removing the forks on an E model
Well, the Clam bike has blown fork seals. So I have to yank the forks. Can someone advise me on how to remove those air chamber collars on the forks on the E models? Do you just slide them off the fork tube? Thanks!Tags: None
-
Billy Ricks
They'll slide off as you pull the forks down. They have o-rings in them for sealing. The lower triple has castings in it to keep the collars positioned right.
-
blo
I found that keeping the upper part of the fork leg (above the air collars) clean and oiled helps when pulling them off.
The o-rings can be quite a drag
Comment
-
Kaiser Sosei
When I did the fork seals on my '80 1100E, I had to beat the fork tubes out. I tried PB blaster to give some lubrication, but it still took some beating. Word of advise, if you do need to beat them out, be careful of the fork caps. They aren't as sturdy as they appear.
Comment
-
Wow, I'm kind of honored to be able to answer a Clam question.8-[
Yes Rich, as you remove the forks froms the upper and lowers the air connector will come out.Doug aka crag antler
83GS1100E, gone
2000 Kawasaki Concours
Please wear ATGATT
Comment
-
Road_Clam
Thanks guys for the input!
Doug even the even the Clam has many questions, oddly during the Clam bike resto I never really needed to separate the forks from the triple tree.
Comment
-
The seals I received from Bikebandit sucked. Poor quality and one leaked. The replacements from Z1 were much better.
If you can get the bike high enough in the air (jack required) you dont even have to remove the front wheel or disconnect the brake lines. Get the headlight off. Undo the brake line junction / wire harness clamp on the lower tripple tree. Undo the speedo cable. Take off the fork caps. Loosen up the up & lwr clamps and the whole works should slide down enough to get the old seals out and the new ones in. Getting the old ones out is a little tricky cause ya gotta pry em out. The new seals slide right in with some grease. Reassemble in reverse order and your ready to ride. \\/Last edited by bonanzadave; 06-20-2007, 11:06 AM.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
Comment
-
Billy Ricks
I know I probably don't need to tell you this, but flush the fork with some kerosene to get any crap out of them. Add a cup to each leg and pump the fork back and forth maybe a dozen times then drain. Repeat the process until the kerosene drains out clean.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostI know I probably don't need to tell you this, but flush the fork with some kerosene to get any crap out of them. Add a cup to each leg and pump the fork back and forth maybe a dozen times then drain. Repeat the process until the kerosene drains out clean.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
Comment
-
mushman
I know some riders are still big fans of the air forks, but I wasn't. About 10 years ago I sent my 82 1100EZ fork tubes off to these guys...
..for a complete reworking-revalving. They are worth considering. Everything has been great since and I've never been happier with the anti-dive disconnected. Better road feel whether under braking or not. Just my thoughts.
Mushman
Comment
-
gsgeezer
I forgot about the kero flush. I was told about that many years ago, and only did it once, on my old Yamaha XS650. When I finally changed the fork oil at thirty thousand miles, it was pretty dirty.
I should probably use fork boots on my bikes, it is so dirty around here on the roads. I clean the tubes sometimes twice a day, or more with mud and bugs.
Comment
Comment