GS850: Any options for different foot pegs?

[ironsheik]

Hey all. I don't want to spend big $$ on some new rearsets or anything but are there any new model pegs that fit the same holes on my 850 frame? I'm not close to any junkyards so if anyone else has experience, I'd appreciate it. I just want to have my fee an inch or so back from stock. Thanks!

Josh

[txironhead]

Your cheapest bet is to take off your factory footpegs and find a good welding shop and see if he can lengthen them or even better, fabricate some new ones so you can put it back stock if you want. Measure and make sure that you won't cause interference with anything first. It shouldn't be that hard or expensive for a decent welder to replicate to your specs. You could probably even have it made to accept Harley-style pegs, then you'd have a wide range of aftermarket pegs if you wanted to change them out.

[80GS1000]

Not sure what style of pegs you're looking for, but a couple of easily fabricated aluminum plates that utilize the stock footpeg bolt holes as anchors and Bob's your uncle for sportbike rearsets which can be cheaply had second-hand on eBay.

[ironsheik]

Gotcha! Just a plate using the stock holes with new mounts drilled into them for the new rearsets, huh? How thick should the aluminum be? 3/16"? Seems reasonable. Thanks a lot!

[Steve]

3/16" might work if all they had to do was hold up your feet.

Have you ever had to STAND on the pegs? 3/16" material would definitely bend under that stress.

You may find that the material on stock peg brackets might only be 1/8" or so, but they are angled, braced, supported and otherwise made much stronger.


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[80GS1000]

3/16" might work if all they had to do was hold up your feet.

Have you ever had to STAND on the pegs? 3/16" material would definitely bend under that stress.

You may find that the material on stock peg brackets might only be 1/8" or so, but they are angled, braced, supported and otherwise made much stronger.


.

It's 1/2" aluminum plate. For bracing, I had a small triangle of steel welded into the V of the subframe directly behind the top rearset bolt hole. A hole was drilled into that triangular piece of steel, and then a long bolt was used to go through the top bolt hole on the rearset, through the welded on piece of steel, and then secured with a nut on the other side. That way, it's secured in three places and the leverage of standing on the pegs is taken care of. Once painted, the finished product becomes inconspicuous (you notice the rearset, not the bracket) and looks like this.

If you don't care about weight as much, I bet thinner steel plate could be used in the same fashion.

If you're seriously considering doing this, I'd suggest using GSXR rearsets. The GSXR 1000 shifter rearset fit on the GS shifter spline like a glove - they have the same spline pattern. You may need to mod the brake rearset a bit to make it work with your GS master cylinder, and you'll need to replace the GSXR rear brake switch connector into the wiring harness with a couple of bullet connectors so your brake light will work when you press the brake pedal. It's only two wires though so it's super easy.

If you want a straight bolt-on, check out Raask rearsets. http://www.raask.se/e-fotpin.htm