Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Death to Phillips! (screws)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by QuaiChangKane View Post
    They can be had for as cheap as 5 bucks at Harbor Freight. I've had expensive ones, and I've had cheap ones - the only gripe I've ever had with the cheap ones is that the bits tend to be brittle and can break. So buy the cheap impact driver, and spring for some spare bits.

    No layman's tool kit for working on UJM's is complete without one (or two) - they're actually treaded and spring loaded, so all you have to do is hold it in place and strike it with a hammer - it will turn the bit all by itself. And they're reversible, too...






    -Q!
    That is a hand impact driver, and I've used them in the past with great results. The tool that I was describing (albeit poorly) is an attachment for an air chisel. It replaces the actual chisel part with an assembly that has a socket end similar to the hand impact driver and a ratcheting handle for turning the fastener while hammering it with the air chisel. My brother-in-law says these are very common in the aircraft industry, but I haven't been able to find any.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
      Darn you, phillips screws! Darn you to heck! :twisted:
      Phillips put the screw's to a lot of of us.I think he also invented vise grips.They seem to be the only way to get the stripped screw's off!!!

      Comment


        #18
        and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
        __________________________________________________ ______________________
        2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

        Comment


          #19
          I just took more off my carb diaphragm covers. Threw them as far as I could.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #20
            I agree. I only need to get a philips screw off once. It immediately gets replaced with an allen bolt, preferably stainless.

            I might look into getting some of those JIS screwdrivers, though. Always fun to "one-up" my family members in the old tool game: "I've got a tool that you don't!"

            Luckily, no one in my family has a passion for old BSA's, etc. or someone would have spent a fortune on British standard tools. And then how would I one-up that?:-D

            Still trying to convince my brother that the Craftsman screwdriver I bent replacing the lower control arm on the wife's Camry is really a custom-ordered specialty tool for adjusting the fuel curve on a 6.9L diesel.....he's not buying it.....

            Comment


              #21
              use a good phillips screwdriver of the correct size take your handy vise-grips and clamp them hard to the handle at a 90 degree angle smack the screwdriver hard with hammer then turn. the vise-grips give you much more leverage and you can push against the screwdriver with your shoulder. low tech but it has saved a lot of stripped screws. once you get the screw out replace it.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                I might look into getting some of those JIS screwdrivers, though. Always fun to "one-up" my family members in the old tool game: "I've got a tool that you don't!"
                I bought three JIS screwdrivers from a company that was referenced in a post several months ago. They sent me two that were JIS and one that wasn't. All three are high quality screwdrivers. I can just barely tell a difference between them and my 35 year old Monkey Wards Powercraft Phillips screwdrivers. And when I use them on the screws on my GS I can't feel any difference at all.

                But they are a really neat green color!

                Tom
                sigpic[Tom]

                “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Jd Powell View Post
                  use a good phillips screwdriver of the correct size take your handy vise-grips and clamp them hard to the handle at a 90 degree angle smack the screwdriver hard with hammer then turn. the vise-grips give you much more leverage and you can push against the screwdriver with your shoulder. low tech but it has saved a lot of stripped screws. once you get the screw out replace it.
                  If clearance problems won't let you get your impact driver at a screw try this...

                  Use the chuck and bit from your impact driver with the appropriate adapter(s) to either a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch ratchet. Put valve grinding compound on the tip of the bit for additional friction grip.

                  And as JD sez whack that screw a few times, this is IMPORTANT it helps break the physical bond that forms from the use of steel screws in aluminum.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Apart from the valve grinding compound (didn't have any handy) that's exactly how I've removed the screws so far. The only screws I haven't gotten around to replacing with the bolts from the kit are the clutch cover screws. I'm planning on removing a screw, installing the allen bolt, remove a screw, etc. That way I don't have to mess with replacing the gasket just yet. I should, I know. I just don't have the time or the money to replace everything that I should.

                    I've also heard that you must be very careful removing the clutch cover because if you don't loosen it evenly the force of the springs can break some of the bolt hole ears off. Since I really don't have the money for a new cover, it's yet another reason I haven't gotten around to doing it.

                    As it is, this bike is costing me about $200 more than I'd planned, which is about par for the course for me, and I still haven't put a tire or chain on it.

                    It WILL run!

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X