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bike wont start after warm fouling #2 and 3

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    bike wont start after warm fouling #2 and 3

    i believe the taitle speaks for itself. i have tested the spark and that is fine and i just had my carbs redone. when i took out the #2 smoke came from the cylinder. replaced #2 plug and started blowing alot of smoke maybe from excess oil in the pipes. any ideas?

    #2
    Fouled plugs could mean a number of things, but most commonly you could be running rich check you float height run over your carbs... If the smoke was from excess oil it would prolly have that tell tale blue color to it.

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      #3
      Can you post a pic of your fouled plugs? Are they black or sooty? Wet and smell like gas? Oily? That will help determine where to start troubleshooting.

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        #4
        Bad connection on that coil or a bad coil.
        I'd check that first before pointing at the igniter or the crank trigger.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          Bad connection on that coil or a bad coil.
          I'd check that first before pointing at the igniter or the crank trigger.
          Thats a great point... checking the coil is also pretty easy do to you just need an ammeter... toss that on your to do list as well.

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            #6
            Like I said in a previous post to you, it could be one of many or a combination of issues, and that you should go through the full suite of basic verification steps listed many times on this site.
            For example, in your case, it could just as easily be a compression related issue (no valve clearance for 2 & 3, blown head gasket affecting 2 & 3, etc.) as a too-rich carb issue. Have you checked compression? Doing the basic checks (you've done spark verification - good), can save you tons of time, money and frustration.
            Also, you keep on saying you recently "had the carbs done". You can find tons of posts here that talk about cases where someone took their bike to a mechanic who was downright negligent in the work they performed - so you should NOT rule out the carbs.
            The bottom line: Until you verify these things yourself you're just playing guessing games.

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              #7
              sorry for all the trouble with everything i am dumb when it comes to mechanically fixing things

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                #8
                Dude, I was NOT beating on you. I was in the same boat as you are at one time. I'm just trying to push you in the right direction, which is to invest the time and effort into those basic verifications now, rather than later. I know I ignored that very same advice and paid a high price for it in terms of time, money and frustration.

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                  #9
                  i am going to start by checking p/c. i don't have an ammeter let alone no how to use one. i want to get this bike riding again but i refuse to take it to the shop, again. anybody have a 550L 1980 manual that i can borrow i am broke at this moment.

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                    #10
                    Where, exactly, do you live? There may be a member just around the corner from you who is willing to walk you through the whole rigamarole in person.

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                      #11
                      i live in western Illinois Sterling to be exact

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                        #12
                        I'm in NJ, so I'm out of the picture. Anyone else?

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                          #13
                          ok so i just checked the p/c diapghram and it worked ok sucked on vacuum tube and fuel came out filter tube. but there is fuel leaking from the p/c itself i have spark so next thing to check is what?

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                            #14
                            so i am thinking about going and getting some chem-dip and tear into the carbs do u guys think this is my issue? i don't want to do it unless it is my last resort. that carb work scares me. Please let me know what u think. p/c is ok i have spark #2 and 3 fouling (black plugs). need oring on p/c leaking fuel. wont start after warm but starts fine when cold.

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                              #15
                              ok so i just went out and started it and took awhile to even get it started with the choke all the way out then it died right away. when i tried to start it i couldn't until i pulled the throttle. when holding the throttle the rpms were jumping from 4k-5k and then it just slowly died when throttle was still pulled. it seems to be getting worse.

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