more on bleeding brakes

[TooManyToys]

We've never had great luck in using a vacuum bleeder here in the shop. And the pressurized tanks can become too messy. So we've been using the standard method of pushing the actuator and closing the bleeder with every stroke for years. Unless we have the ABS actuator hardware to do the system bleeds on a particular application.

I really don't see the benefit of compressing the calipers with a c-clamp. Thousands of vehicles have their brake hydraulics serviced every week in this country leaving the caliper pistons in the normal operating position without issue. There is nothing in a motorcycle caliper body that is any different then an automotive caliper.

[DimitriT]

I really don't see the benefit of compressing the calipers with a c-clamp. Thousands of vehicles have their brake hydraulics serviced every week in this country leaving the caliper pistons in the normal operating position without issue. There is nothing in a motorcycle caliper body that is any different then an automotive caliper.

Probably correct but I know it works for me. Probably more important to shift the caliper around and get the bubbles moving. When I bleed brakes to replace the fluid I always compress the caliper as I want to replace the fluid in the cylinder too. So this is just part of the process for me.

[txironhead]

I helped rebuild the hydraulic clutch on a Nighthawk once and found a neat trick that works for me. I don't have a Mityvac, been meaning to get one but bike parts have been keeping me financially humbled....what I do have is a very large syringe (think elephant tranquilizer) that I picked up at a medical supply store for the purpose of measuring fork oil. No matter how many times we pumped and bled the clutch, it wouldn't pressurize, so I got the bright idea to open the bleed screw and force fluid upwards from the bleed screw with the syringe. Sure enough, bubbles started coming out of the master and soon we had a nice, firm clutch. Did the same trick on the front brakes and he swears he could never get the brakes that firm.

Basically, I attached some clear tubing to the nipple of the syringe and secured it with a clamp. I also clamped the tubing at the bleed screw. You might have to take the plunger out and add more fluid as you go, just make sure to never force air into the lines or you're defeating the purpose. Actually, air bubbles also came out at the bleed screw as I was forcing more fluid in. This is just the way I do it, it works really well for me and I spent less than $5 on the syringe and tubing.

[jpaul]

I have a Mity-Vac and still had a hard time gettting the last couple of bubbles out of the MC/banjo-bolt area. What I ended up doing was putting one of the nozzles from the Mity-Vac on and sticking it down into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir, applying a little vacuum, and juggling the brake lever a bit. Worked like a charm.