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Tips on intake boot removal?

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    Tips on intake boot removal?

    Okay, before I go and do something stupid in haste, is there a tip for removing the phillips screws holding the carb/intake manifold/boots to the engine? They've been in there since new, and they're not budging. I have new ones and o-rings on the way.

    Thanks in advance.
    1979 GS750E

    #2
    Check out the link below...Tconroy (Tim) gives a great explanation of the process. It work "VERY WELL" Make sure you have a genuine Vice Grip or you may have some trouble. :?

    This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.

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      #3
      I had good luck with a good-fitting bit, pounded into the screw with a hammer, in a 1/4" socket on a small ratchet wrench. The ratchet gives you the leverage you need, the good bit pounded in gives you the bite you need. Make sure to push on it as hard as you can to keep the bit biting into the screw as you turn it. I find a quick hard snap on the wrench breaks 'em free better than slow easy pressure.

      And of course liberal use of PB Blaster is always encouraged.

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        #4
        Lock your centerstand. Use a Dremel with a fiiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheel. COVER THE INTAKES, and then carve a slot in each screw. Use a large regular screwdriver and put a wrench on the shaft. Press inward and crank the wrench.
        and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
        __________________________________________________ ______________________
        2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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          #5
          Impact driver like this one worked for me, provided the screws aren't already stripped.

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            #6
            Success!

            I was able to get 6 of 8 out with a #3 phillips bit on the end of about an 18-inch breaker bar. I pushed forward behind the 90-degree bend while turning. The other two were a little stripped out from my earlier efforts, so I cut away the rubber and used the Vise Grip method.

            Thanks to all for your helpful suggestions! (I'll do an intro to myself later.)
            Last edited by Guest; 06-25-2007, 09:05 PM. Reason: remove photo link, misspell

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              #7
              Well for future reference, if you don't have room to get at them with a impact driver or the slots get stripped get yourself a small cold chisel. With gentler taps get a slot started in the side of the screw head. Then move the chisel and tap so that the screw is knocked loose. Probably three of the eight on mine came out intact. I used this method to get the other five out in 10 to 15 minutes.

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                #8
                I too had great sucess with the Vice-Grips method. All four of my boots were torn (tore off that is) so I had a lot of room. Replace them with hex head cap screws to prevent future occurances.

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                  #9
                  I used a drill bit a little larger than the shaft of the screw and drilled the screw heads off. Once the boots were off there was a nice shaft to get a good grip with vice-grips. Even then, 3 helicoils were required. Replaced with 6mm hex-head screws.

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                    #10
                    An old mechanic once told me the best way to get stuck screws loose is to turn them in a TIGHTENING direction first. It doesn't take much. In fact, you may not even feel it move at all. But it's sometimes just enough to break the corrosion free. I have often used this trick on many a stuck screw.

                    When all else fails, I have an impact tool nearby.

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