GS1150 - Above-normal clutch dragging??

[jlgace]

I've just taken apart and reassembled the clutch, looking for warpage and wear on the plates to see why it was dragging so badly. While doing so, I also changed to a lighter oil as recommended elsewhere in the site. I have the stock (I believe, still waiting for a manual) clutch pack, 9 fibers & 9 steels started with a steel and ending with a fiber on the outside. After reassembly, it's no better. Maybe even a little worse. When others say the clutch may drag when cold, how bad do you mean? I can only get the bike into first gear and the bike is trying to go with the clutch pulled. Can't shift to 2nd or neutral without shutting off the engine. I did ride around in 1st for a bit to warm it up, but didn't seem to matter. And yes, I've adjusted the clutch movement thoroughly. Any insight would be really helpful.

[derwood]

I have one too, excellent bike, just put 1750 kms on it last weekend, sure glad I didn't sell it. The barrnett drags a little worse than oem. But both clutches only ever dragged when cold. The biggest factor on mine is the clutch lever, the bushing wears, then the lever(pivot hole) and the bolt too , I suppose. This changes your effective lever length. suzuki won't sell you a bushing but the lever is available for around 25 canadian clams. It also solved the lever rattle.I set mine with as little free play as i can perceive. Also set the lever on the clutch end almost paralell to the case seam...just a little to the inside. I run 10w40 motor cycle oil..castrol. Another unrelated clutch thing...Lube your cable I changed my clutch cause the cable was siezing in the sheath so the clutch slipped if i was really rooting on it...the sticky cable was stopping the clutch from engaging quickly.
PS, what secret location are you at?

[jlgace]

It's not a secret really, I just didn't think to publicize it or notice any fellow Canadians yet. I'm in Regina. And you?

As for the lever and clutch travel, just for fun I threaded the adjuster out all the way so the clutch was about 1/2 engaged before pulling the lever, and still the same. That was my initial thought too when I was looking at the bike... I actually bought it like this so unfortunately I have no insight as to what repairs were attempted, if any, or how the problem started. Pretty sure the po had 20/50 in there though. Pretty thick stuff even on a 32 C/90 F day. Bike has 28,000km/17,000 miles so I'm pretty certain I'm looking at a stock clutch. A note though: The clutch did not seem to be as saturated in oil as I thought it should be when I first disassembled it. Does anyone know how it's lubricated? Does it just rely on splashing, or is there an actual feed? Again thanks for any input.

[madjack57754]

I've just went through one of my 1150's clutch. It was dragging. What I found was that the inner hub had failed, and if I hadn't looked close I would have missed the real problem. mine was dragging due to the steel center had separated from the aluminum of the inner hub. I replaced the hub with a spare from an 1100 that while it is constructed differently, fit just fine. I put Barnett fibers and Suzuki steels in the pack. Problem solved.
I guess what I'm saying is inspect all the parts and don't take for granted the most obvious possible cause

[rapidray]

Also, if you don't get the wave washer seated CORRECTLY the clutch will drag. Ray.

[jlgace]

Wow Ray, you like your toys. Thanks for the tip. By the 'wave washer', I'm assuming you mean the one in the back of the clutch pack that rides in it's own collar? If so, then yes that was alright. However I have another used clutch pack that came with the bike and I took it apart to see if it was any good, and I noticed that it has 10 steels and 9 fibers (steel at front), and the back steel that would be riding on that big washer is wired in tight so it can't move. I looked at the hub that's currently in the bike and there is a groove for a wire to be fitted, but no wire. Is this wire critical to the proper operation of the clutch? I measured the stack height of both packs and they're just over 1/16" different, so I'm soaking the fibers right now and I'm going to try out this pack instead as it appears to be in better shape. PS: Anyone happen to have the torque spec for the big nut holding in the hub?

[rapidray]

Wow Ray, you like your toys. Thanks for the tip. By the 'wave washer', I'm assuming you mean the one in the back of the clutch pack that rides in it's own collar? If so, then yes that was alright. However I have another used clutch pack that came with the bike and I took it apart to see if it was any good, and I noticed that it has 10 steels and 9 fibers (steel at front), and the back steel that would be riding on that big washer is wired in tight so it can't move. I looked at the hub that's currently in the bike and there is a groove for a wire to be fitted, but no wire. Is this wire critical to the proper operation of the clutch? I measured the stack height of both packs and they're just over 1/16" different, so I'm soaking the fibers right now and I'm going to try out this pack instead as it appears to be in better shape. PS: Anyone happen to have the torque spec for the big nut holding in the hub?

As a Suzuki dealer mechanic back in those days, whenever we did a GS clutch replacement that wire went in the TRASH can! None of my street or dragbikes have them. Also, 50 lbs is good torque on the hub nut but you might think about getting a hardened nut from APE as the stock ones tend to strip. Ray.

[jlgace]

Thanks Ray! I was just about to ask that question. Reassembling now...