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i've found a bike to replace my engine and transmission, but it doesn't run. hasn't ran in 2 years at least. it looks okay, but what do i look for to know if its an even worse situation than what i'm in now?
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Does it turn over? Can you measure compression? Can you shift through all the gears?
You can do these things without a running bike. -
Always liked this checklist...
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It always floors me. It ran when I parked it 14 years ago, etc.
We've hashed it over enough. There isn't anything you can do except what Dimitri suggested. Flat out offer no more than $300 bucks for the bike, no matter how beautiful it is.
"But I know it runs!"
"Fine, start it up!"
"Well, I can't it just needs a battery, stator, r/r, carbs cleaned, tank coated, new tires, chain, sprockets, etc."
"Then it doesn't run."
You're buying a pig in a poke! Let the Buyer Beware! What you gonna due if the botom end is shot?Comment
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Heed his words. You must be able to recoup your expense in the sale of the parts if what you need is no good. If this engine and trans is better than yours what about the rest of the bike? Maybe you should be parting out yours?Originally posted by jimcor View PostComment
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I agree.
Bring a compression guage, spark plug socket and some jumper cables. Go through the gears and check compression with WOT. If the compression cold is as low as 100 it is good. Maybe even lower is good.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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As above......
Don't let your eye's and head tell you its great and pay over the top. the following morning when you look at it in the workshop/garage etc you won't be wearing the rose tinted glasses.
Suzuki madComment
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Not trying to simply parrot what you've already been told here...
The advice you've been given might not be exactly what you expected, but I have to agree with the collective wisdom here; YOU have the CASH, so YOU have the POWER, and if the seller wants more than you're willing to pay for a NON-RUNNING GS which you CAN'T test ride, VOTE WITH YOUR FEET, and get the hell out of there. You might have found a great motorcycle, or a good-looking pile of junk.
Take a fully-charged battery, a compression gauge, a sparkplug wrench, and anything else you'll need to test the engine with. Others have already mentioned that the GS doesn't have to START or RUN just to perform a cold-compression test (at WOT). I'd think as long as you see at LEAST 90 ~ 100 PSI in each cylinder (COLD), the engine itself is probably intact. Anything less than that, and you've got headaches.
As for the transmission, that's more of a crap-shoot, but you should be able to get the bike rolling, then try to shift through the gears. If it won't roll, you still might be able to move the shifter all the way up and down the range, but if you're NOT sure that it is shifting properly, be willing to walk away, or offer LESS money if you're willing to part it out. If you buy it cheaply enough, you might be able to harvest the best parts, and sell the rest...
The bike might be stuck in gear (from old, cold, dirty oil binding the clutch plates); if so, you should be able to rock it free, and get it into neutral. Be SURE you're ACTUALLY in neutral before you try a compression test; if you can't roll the motorcycle without pulling in the clutch, you're NOT in neutral. Do NOT work with the engine in gear; if the bike falls, you're going to have an ANGRY seller to deal with. He shouldn't have a problem with you checking the bike thoroughly, but he ISN'T expecting you to damage it...
This is up to you now; I wish you the best of luck in your search...Comment
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What is so bad about your transmission that you don't want to go there an fix it? You would rather buy an unknown untrusted lump hoping that it would be a better, cheaper bet?
Stripped my GS(X)1100 down because of a gearbox whine and other problems. Cost over £1000 ($2000) in parts alone to fix but now got an as new gearbox!
Just concerned that you may be wasting your cash and end up paying twice.
Suzuki madComment
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awesome responses. thanks a lot. but what is WOT? i'm trying to keep my bike on the road cheaply, and within my mechanical ability. messing with the transmission... cracking open the cases... not within my realm. buying a new one... definitely.Comment
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Yes, NEVER pay more than $300 for a non-running bike, EVEN if compression and gears check out OK.Comment
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WOT = Wide Open ThrottleComment
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Looks like you've been given some good advice so far. Small engines (bikes) and other gasoline engines with carbs especially that haven't run for a long time often have fuel issues. If you can get it to crank over, you can usually tell if it has fuel or ignition issues by fueling it with propane! This works slick with an air box or other intake systems that use manifold air......open an UNLIT propane torch into the intake and crank it over......no flooding....no washing down cylinder walls and no choke required. You may have to open the throttle to allow good gas (not gasoline) passage, Many times, if there's gasoline in the tank or carbs, forcing it to start like this will wake up the rest of the fuel system somewhat.Originally posted by devillox View PostComment
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no matter what the seller tells you If it can't be started, your just buying a bunch of parts.Comment
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