Pitted camchain adjuster pushrod

[janksolid]

Sorry, I have just read this thread. If you are planning to keep the bike for ever, you should consider hard facing the pins bevelled face. This will ensure that the same problem doesn't return after a realitively short mileage. You can do it cheaply by arc welding some Philips 350 hardfacing elecrodes onto the bevelled slope. Then use Brian's suggestion to return the end to it's original shape. Case hardening is also an option, but could be more expensive, depending on the grade of steel the pin is made of.
This is assuming that you haven't re-assembled it yet and fitted it back up to the bike.

That's good advice. Thank you.

At the moment I just need to get the bike back on the road quickly. Car driving in London is a slow, frustrating business and we have congestion charging in the city centre (for cars - bikes are excluded).

I will be replacing the camchain and doing a top end rebuild over winter so I'll get the rod hardened at the same time.

Just want to say thanks to everyone who has replied to my thread.

I'm not a mechanic and this is the first bike that I've really worked on. I think the most I'd done before was to adjust a drive chain! The advice and sense of community on this forum is second to none. Respect to everyone involved :-D

[bwringer]

Sorry, I have just read this thread. If you are planning to keep the bike for ever, you should consider hard facing the pins bevelled face. This will ensure that the same problem doesn't return after a realitively short mileage. You can do it cheaply by arc welding some Philips 350 hardfacing elecrodes onto the bevelled slope. Then use Brian's suggestion to return the end to it's original shape. Case hardening is also an option, but could be more expensive, depending on the grade of steel the pin is made of.
This is assuming that you haven't re-assembled it yet and fitted it back up to the bike.

Where/how would one have this done?

Frankly, I was somewhat surprised to find that the bevel face wasn't hardened. It was easy to clean up, but I have to wonder when the pitting will come back.

[49er]

Where/how would one have this done?

Frankly, I was somewhat surprised to find that the bevel face wasn't hardened. It was easy to clean up, but I have to wonder when the pitting will come back.

Any general engineering workshop should be able to do this for you. You don't have to use Philips electrodes but something in that hardness range (300-450). If you go much higher than 450 you risk the chance of the surface cracking and chipping. You could even consider Philips MN. This is a manganese electrode and will work harden with impact. It is used mainly on digger buckets, pile drivers and bulldozer blades to slow down the effects of abrasion.
I believe suzuki used cheaper grades of steel in some components on the later model 850's. The drive splines of the diff come to mind.
After 80,000kms, my pin hasn't pitted/scored yet.

[janksolid]

I need help with the rebuild.

Specifically the oil seal. Which way up does it go?

I put it in with the flat side out but couldn't get the rod through without distorting the seal.

Then I tried it the other way up and the rod goes through fine. Is this right?

It doesn't look right.

Li'l help here...

[tconroy]

The solid side of the oil seal should face outward and you put the rod thru from the back if that helps.There should only be one way that is goes in.

[janksolid]

The solid side of the oil seal should face outward and you put the rod thru from the back if that helps.There should only be one way that is goes in.

Ok thanks.

I'll try it again.

The lockshaft just wouldn't go through from the back with the seal that way round. Even with the seal out of the tensioner I still couldn't get it on the shaft that way round without dragging the inner surface with it so that the shaft won't turn :?

I'll try using a bit more oil on it.........

[janksolid]

OK folks. Panic over.....

It's just very fiddly getting the lockshaft thru the oil seal but patience and perseverance has prevailed.

I've now got a nice clean tensioner all working smooth as silk ready to bolt back on to "that ****ing noise machine" (my neighbours words, not mine :-D)

[tconroy]

Ok thanks.

I'll try it again.

The lockshaft just wouldn't go through from the back with the seal that way round. Even with the seal out of the tensioner I still couldn't get it on the shaft that way round without dragging the inner surface with it so that the shaft won't turn :?

I'll try using a bit more oil on it.........

Do a search on the cam chain tensioner rebuild and you will find bwringer's web sight on how to do this.It will make more sence than me trying to tell you.That's where I learned how to do it and he even has pictures to go by!!!

[janksolid]

All done.....

Everything went on smoothly and the tensioner was doing it's job when I turned the crank.

I'm well pleased! This is easily the most complex job I've done on a bike so far but I'm inspired by my new found confidence. I'm looking forward to that top end job now.

Just been for a blast round the block and you just know I'm grinning.... :-D

Thanks to everyone who has helped me on this. Couldn't have done it without you. Hope to be able to put some knowledge back in one day....

Mike