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broken screw and extractor Please Help!

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    broken screw and extractor Please Help!

    I am at my end. One thing after another.
    Took the day off from work just to try and finish my 79 GS550.
    Got all the intake boots off exept for one pesky screw. tried every trick in the book( I read every link there is to brocken/ stripped screws). Head broke off, tried vice grips yada yada yada, got down to the screw extractor and it broke off inside. Now I am screwed!
    I have no way of taking the bike to a shop so that's out. I have already spent way to much money on this thing so the mobil mechanic is out.
    the one "GOOD" thing is that it's an outside screw so easy to get to.
    Please, does anyone have any ideas?

    #2
    Extractors are hard... damn difficult to do anything with it now.

    Take the head of & give it to a machine shop to spark it out with an EDM machine might be the only way.

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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      #3
      I might soak it for a day in lot's of penetrating oil and then try to heat the area around the screw. Heat may not only release some of the corrosion but will also slightly expand the area around the screw. Of course, don't melt the intake boot if it is still on. Let it cool, you could even push an ice cube against the screw to cool it inside the head. Ideally you want a cold screw inside a hot part. Do this a couple times and then take a good vise grips to it. You could use a heat gun or hair dryer but again use caution around the boot. If the boots are all off you can go hotter, of course, but not too hot because the head can warp from uneven heating and cooling. There's nothing worse than broken bolts, good luck.

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        #4
        the boot is off and the screw and extractor are perfectly flush with the surface So there is no way to grab a piece of it.
        I am willing to try about anything that will not cost a bunch of money.

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          #5
          Any way to take and post a picture so we can see where and what it looks like?

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            #6
            I would try to drill it and retap the hole.Head off on a drillpres verry slowly whit a verry small bit at first.

            Comment


              #7
              didn't know it was flush at this point. Do you have access to a mig welder? You could either weld a nut to it and try to continue to try to remove it. Or if your desperate/can't spend/don't care what it looks like, you could weld a small threaded rod to it, and then use a nut to hold the boot on. This is not SOP.

              Comment


                #8
                No mig welder. But these ideas are giving me a glimmer of hope. here are a couple of pics to give ya'll an idea of the situation.
                I don't care what it looks like at this point. I would use super glue if I thought it would work.






                This is the first time i have tried to post pictures, hope it works.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Extractors are made of hard steel, they have to be able to cut into and grip the screw in which they are trying to remove. That said, it could be possible to drill it out using a carbide drill, a standard drill is not hard enough and will dull instantly. The entire extractor would not have to be drilled out, only about 1/3 of it which should eliminate enough pressure and might even pull it out in the process.
                  If care is taken you will not break the drill, which is very hard itself. If the extractor does not come out by itself, a small drift punch to the edges of the extractor should collapse them and allow you to remove it.
                  Care should be taken to drill the extractor in the center.

                  Once the extractor is removed, drill the appropriate sized Tap hole and re tap the hole. Set the depth on the drill by inserting it in one of the other boot holes and placing a piece of tape around the drill flush with the head.
                  Take care when tapping the hole, use oil and remove the tap frequently and clean out the steel threads that remain. If you have patience and take your time, you should be successful.
                  Gustov
                  80 GS 1100 LT, 83 1100 G "Scruffy"
                  81 GS 1000 G
                  79 GS 850 G
                  81 GS 850 L
                  83 GS 550 ES, 85 GS 550 ES
                  80 GS 550 L
                  86 450 Rebel, 70CL 70, Yamaha TTR125
                  2002 Honda 919
                  2004 Ural Gear up

                  Comment


                    #10
                    like SMAGNUSEN said it would be easy to have someone come over with a welder and weld a washer to the bolt and then a nut onto it. I have done this many, many times and had great success. the heat from the welding expands the bolt and when it cools it shrinks a bit and should come out easy. you may have to weld a nut on a couple of times but it will work.

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                      #11
                      well i will tell you what you will have to do. and your not gonna like it.

                      take the head off, and take it to a machine shop so they can drill it out and put a helicoil in it. it sucks but thats your only choice.

                      i had to do it with three bolts. i tried every trick in the book, had a drill bit broken off in one, and an easy out in another.... i really messed it up good.

                      good luck man. i hope you can get it out, but its not looking good

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You can also try a carbide cutting bit. I've used one to grind through a broken hardened steel drill bit before. This company makes a really good one http://www.truebite.com/ and it comes in diameters from 1/8 down to 1/16 for use in a Dremel. $12 bucks plus shipping. If you go slow you might be able to do it. I've used it for many such things and it's never failed yet!

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                          #13
                          Well the carbid bit route seems to be the only realistic option at this time.
                          removing the heads and taking them to a shop is WAY out of the question, if it comes to that then I would have to junk the bike. I just finished my first carb job, and that took 2 weeks (I work 12+) wife, 3 year old......
                          I don't mind tinkering but full time mechanics just aren't in the cards right now. I was lucky enough to find a few hours a week to ride when it was working.
                          I paid to much for the bike to begin with, plus many new parts, and have spent more time fixing it then riding it.
                          I don't know anyone that welds (for free) so my options are limited.
                          Things happen.
                          All said "You all are wonderful, It's fantastic to see that there is still people willing to take the time to help a complete stranger"

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Been there, done that. As mentioned, you want to get a carbide bit. I actually went through two of them before I got the sucker out. What a pain!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Get a small solid carbide drill bit and drill through the easy-out. Go slow and easy it should work ok.

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