'79 GS1000E restoration question?

[GaThumper]

i tore the entire wiring harness apart on my drag bike and was surprised at all the blackened connectors. i don't think there are any connectors that are hidden in wrapped wires but they are under the seat, in the headlight housing and under the gas tank. also the ignition switch, the light switch and hi/lo beam switch could well be corroded. there are soldered splices under the wire wrappings but, in my bike's case, they were all fine.

are you planning on using that luggage rack? i've been looking for one.

I'll be keeping the luggage rack unless I find a nicer one along the way somewhere. I like the look and design, it's just got a bit of rust on it. I've had it in the houst this weekend rubbing and polishing and have made it look pretty good. Still just a bit of rust on the bottom side and at the junctions of the pieces, and also the inside of the mounting brackets.

I'm trying to figure out the best plan for stopping the rust from spreading. I may end up using one of the "rust conversion" chemicals, and/or paint the inside/underside black. Or I may just shoot it with some clear coat and let it be. It doesn't look too bad, I just don't want it to advance any farther. I may just take some rust converter with a small artist paintbrush and just hit the rust without hitting the "good" chrome.

Any suggestions on treating the rusted chrome parts in general are welcome. Botom/inside of the header pipes and a few other odds and ends need attention.

Also going to have to do something with the clearcoat on the cases as it is looking pretty scaley in places. Strip and polish, or strip, sand, and clear coat I guess?

[txironhead]

Strip, sand, and paint with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel. It'll look like fresh-cast aluminum and it lasts pretty well, too.

[GaThumper]

Strip, sand, and paint with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel. It'll look like fresh-cast aluminum and it lasts pretty well, too.

Are you are talking about the clutch and ignition covers or the main engine cases? My engine cases are pretty much OK, it's the engine side covers that are a little ratty. My understanding is that it's the clear coat that is peeling on them? From what I've read they were originally clear coated, but you can strip the clear coat and polish the aluminum, or sand and re-apply the clear coat. I've also read that the clear coat sold by Yamaha is the best for this application?

I'll try and post some close up pics of the cases later.

Thanks!

[Nessism]

Are you are talking about the clutch and ignition covers or the main engine cases? My engine cases are pretty much OK, it's the engine side covers that are a little ratty. My understanding is that it's the clear coat that is peeling on them? From what I've read they were originally clear coated, but you can strip the clear coat and polish the aluminum, or sand and re-apply the clear coat. I've also read that the clear coat sold by Yamaha is the best for this application?

I'll try and post some close up pics of the cases later.

Thanks!

Upper engine case is painted gray/silver, side covers are polished and clear coated.

I'm redoing the engine side covers on my 550. Strip off the clear with paint stripper followed by sanding out the corrosion. Use wet dry sandpaper, progressively finer, until you are down to 600 grit. The original cases were not polished but rather have a "brushed" appearance - 600 is about right for the final finish. Yamaha clear eh? I've used VHT engine clear before but was not happy with the final appearance since it had a yellow cast to it.

Good luck. The bike looks great by the way. Don't forget to check the valves while you have the tank/carbs off. :-D

[txironhead]

The PO did a crappy "all-black" rattle can job on the engine of my '81 GS750EX. I'm going to end up trying to clean it as best as possible and repainting the block black, with the "brushed aluminum" painted covers. I'd love to polish the covers, but living in an apartment doesn't really make it easy to bust out my bench grinder and polishing wheels. I don't even want to think about how many polishing wheels I'd go through with my Dremel. I figure the brushed aluminum paint looks good for now (it really does look like fresh-cast aluminum) and if I get a chance later I can take them off and go for the really nice polished look.

Honestly, right now I'm more concerned with getting it running and riding it!

[GaThumper]

Upper engine case is painted gray/silver, side covers are polished and clear coated.

I'm redoing the engine side covers on my 550. Strip off the clear with paint stripper followed by sanding out the corrosion. Use wet dry sandpaper, progressively finer, until you are down to 600 grit. The original cases were not polished but rather have a "brushed" appearance - 600 is about right for the final finish. Yamaha clear eh? I've used VHT engine clear before but was not happy with the final appearance since it had a yellow cast to it.

Good luck. The bike looks great by the way. Don't forget to check the valves while you have the tank/carbs off. :-D

Thanks for the reply! I didn't check the valves before I put it back together but now realize that I should have and will do that soon. Not too big of a deal to remove the seat and tank again. I bought a complete (with factory greese and garage smell) shop manual from Ebay and just got a valve shim tool off Ebay, too. Sad to say the valves have never been checked or adjusted since new in '79 with 12k miles!

I'll also inspect and clean all the wiring connections while I'm in there next time. I guess some good dielectric greese would be appropiate? Or just WD40?

Been waiting over a week now for the rear brake master cylinder kit from my local dealer, hope to get it before the weekend.

Thanks!