JB Weld + Jb Weld + oil??? Cyl Head 550

[Guest]

Ok my 550, which is in overall good condition, has a hole in the top of the cylinder head (not the cover, but the top part of the cylinder head that is shaped like the opposite of the cover above Cyl #1) and the PO (member red bandit) covered the hole with JB Weld but a bubble must have come through and there is still a small leak. I would like to put off replacing the head until later in the season (so I can get out and ride) so:

a) can I JB Weld over JB weld?
b) how much prepping do I have to do to get it right?
c) any good tips for making sure oil won't leak through the new patch if this is possible?
d) anyone have an extra head laying around for an 80 GS550E?
e) other suggestions?

[Nessism]

You know the drill...post a photo so we can for ourselves.

Assuming this is a non structural portion of the head, I'd recommend fashoning a metal patch of some kind that covers the leak area (after removing the old JB Weld) and then glue the patch in place with fresh JBW.

[MissFabulous]

You know the drill...post a photo so we can for ourselves.

Assuming this is a non structural portion of the head, I'd recommend fashoning a metal patch of some kind that covers the leak area (after removing the old JB Weld) and then glue the patch in place with fresh JBW.

LOL I kept telling myself to wait until I could run out and take a pic before posting, but I got impatient.

Anyway, you're saying the new JB won't stick to the old? Kinda what I thought, but I figured I'd give it a shot (read lazy) but now you've lit a fire under me arse so I'll go take a pic. Thanks!

[Nessism]

Anyway, you're saying the new JB won't stick to the old? Kinda what I thought, but I figured I'd give it a shot (read lazy) but now you've lit a fire under me arse so I'll go take a pic. Thanks!

I didn't say JBW won't stick to old, it should. I'm saying that you should bridge the hole with a patch instead of just trying to plug it with glue - which hasn't worked up to this point.

[MissFabulous]

Ok, here is what it looks like in general, and I'm told the original hole is maybe close to dime size?



and in this pic, the black dot is where it is leaking from now.



Best way of going about it? I have a Dremel and Simple Green for cleaning up the oil... keep in mind I am looking for a fix to get me to end of season, and over the winter I can do it up right Any tips appreciated! Thanks!

[txironhead]

I prefer Liquid Steel over JBW, but to each their own. JBW will stick to itself, the trick is getting it absolutely oil-free. I normally accomplish this by using Tech 2000 (Wal-Mart brand) carb and choke cleaner. I just don't know what that will do to JBW. I know it will eat a pair of latex gloves right down to the cuff and eventually strip paint if you're not careful. The only other way to degrease that I know of that will not harm the part is diswashing detergent and rinsing well.

[Nessism]

Well...just my opinion but I don't like the look of that patch. I'd grind it off and make a metal patch that bridges the hole. You might want to have a look from the inside to see what you are up against. No reason the patch can't go inside as long as there is room for the cams and twirlling bits.

All this said, I'd make bets that if you cleaned the oil off with brake cleaner, inside and out, sanded the old JB Weld to rough up the surface, and slathered on some more glue it would hold for the season. You decide.

[MissFabulous]

I prefer Liquid Steel over JBW, but to each their own. JBW will stick to itself, the trick is getting it absolutely oil-free. I normally accomplish this by using Tech 2000 (Wal-Mart brand) carb and choke cleaner. I just don't know what that will do to JBW. I know it will eat a pair of latex gloves right down to the cuff and eventually strip paint if you're not careful. The only other way to degrease that I know of that will not harm the part is diswashing detergent and rinsing well.

I think most carb cleaners are acetone aren't they? According to the JB Weld website, it's safe to thin the stuff with acetone, so I guess that won't decrease the durability of it, like the way acetone will permanently turn some plastics into goo. I have plenty of that around, so perhaps I'll give that a try tomorrow. I'll be very careful of the paint and plastics around it!! I'll see what I can pick out of the old stuff to get it as clean as possible first. I may go the pay little now and a lot more later route and watch for oil on my pants regularly...

[Clone]

I would say
1. take a dremel tool to the old fix and get as much of that awful repair off as possible.
2. remove the cam cover and look at the hole from the inside, get out the shop vac and dremel off the crap from inside the channel if there is room.
3. if you have actually removed all the old repair. pack the channel with rags and spray down the area with brake cleaner or carb cleaner (don't breathe the fumes, they kill brain cells, ask me how I know)
4. take a peice of muffler repair tape or get a block of styrofoam and make a block to cover the outside of the valve channel.
5. mix up your new patching material, JBWeld if that is what you like and patch it from the inside.

Now all this work may be useless if the heat from the exhaust will melt the repair material.

[spyug]

I have not used JB weld but it looks to me like it is fairly liquid when applied. It seems to slop all over the place or the PO was a little slap dash in the application. I like something a little firmer to work with and I've done a few successful repairs with plumbers epoxy putty. It is a available from most hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes. it is a two part epoxy formulation like a PlayDo which you mix together to harden. Its good to use on these types of repairs because you can cram it in to cracks and holes and it stays in place. Impervious to gas and oil...I've personally tested. Great for gas tank repairs. Easily shaped when dry & hard.

Guys have used this over on the XS board to repair engine cases and barrels so the stuff holds up to heat. Its made for hot water pipes after all.

I think I would prep the same way as advised. Clean out all the old stuff down to the metal. Degrease and rough up the metal to provide "tooth" for the epoxy. Slap in a wad of the putty like plugging a leak in the dam with chewing gum.

I'm pretty sure this will last a few seasons so you should be fine for the rest of this year at least.

Let us know what you decide to do and how it works.

Cheers,
Spyug

[emjay]

I didn't know much about JB Weld, so I went to their website. In the FAQs section I found this interesting tidbit:

Q: Is J-B Weld toxic?

A: No. J-B Weld is non-toxic. However, we do not recommend consuming the product.

Anyone up for a little taste testing?

[MissFabulous]

I didn't know much about JB Weld, so I went to their website. In the FAQs section I found this interesting tidbit:

Q: Is J-B Weld toxic?

A: No. J-B Weld is non-toxic. However, we do not recommend consuming the product.

Anyone up for a little taste testing?

LMAO - I read that last night and tried to put it in my sig line but I was over the character limit!

The trouble I'm running into right now is probably the trouble that caused the last plugging to fail. From the outside, as soon as it's cleaned off, more oil seeps out. Guess I have work to do! Thanks, all.

[onchiman]

I bet you could effect a permanent repair using some JB Weld. The key would be to clean all the old stuff off, roughen the surface of the aluminum a bit and make sure it's clean, clean, clean. I've patched some rather large holes by cutting a "patch" out of some metal window screen. Cut the patch slightly larger than the hole and then work the JB Weld into it from both sides. If you let it set-up a little first, it's like a putty. Don't worry about appearance, just so long as you get enough to form the initial fill. Then after it hardens, sand and apply some more JB to smooth any irregularities. I've filled holes in crank cases like this and they've never let go or leaked. The stuff willl take a fair amount of heat too.

[Jethro]

When I dumped my 81, I ground a hole right through my stator cover about a dime size. It took a few tries that leaked, but the best way was to take the cover off, clean with alchohol, smear JB Weld on the inside going well past the diameter of the hole, let it dry, then do the same on the outside. After that it didn't leak at all. This would be harder with a head, obviously, but I'd still suggest doing it this way.

Of course, if you are pulling the head, you might as well replace it. Call some of the bone yards. I got a nice head for my 1100 for $200, cams, valves and all in good shape.

[emjay]

... as soon as it's cleaned off, more oil seeps out ...

Try draining the oil first, then follow onchiman's method.